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+1Exactly what i do, most of the time +0.7 dialed in. If you can, a custom WB is preferred as well.
Werner
Thanks Lee, focus was at far end of dock and aperture was f/8. Once you set a smaller image size in the camera menu, I don't think that you can get back to "High" or full size when processing the raw. Selecting Convert to jpg will give you the same size image that was set in the camera, not always full size. I never use the smaller sizes so I don't know how this got set to "medium". Something to watch out for and by the way these reduced size images look horrible at 100%.Hi Carl
Great pics, as always. Where did you focus in that bridge shot and what aperture did you use? I think I may have to 're-learn' some hyper focus techniques but my shots seem to be sharper back to front if I just focus on or near the distance than try to be clever with a third of the way in the scene!
I've had some ruined by camera shake too (hand held).
I am finding that I am regularly adding +.3 or +0.7 EV too (which is counter-intuitive and worried me all the time) but of course this increases the risk of camera shake. Yes, I know, I should just use that tripod ...
A hint that may be obvious to all but after you have AF you can press the button labelled 'focus' to switch it MF and thus keep the same focus point for a series of shots. If you are in MF the camera seems to remember the focus distance even after being switched off and back on again, which is handy if you have it set to auto-off in a short space of time. If you are in AF, after switching off and on it seems to have the AF set near infinity.
Of course if you switch to AF you need to remember that you have done that, LOL!
It is odd, isn't it, that the RAW stores the size of the image selected? BTW the JPG within the RAW is the full size one. It may also have a smaller preview JPG but when within the main SPP window with the thumbnails, the 'File/Convert to JPEG file ...' option merely extracts the full size embedded JPEG - which is identical to the one you get when shooting RAW+JPEG. So no need to do the latter. For a quick look at all images in LR etc, just select all and do the above to get JPEG renderings quickly. Of course, many of the images will need adjustment in SPP but at least you get a quick idea how they are this way.
I have even started going out with my Merrill and X-Pro 1 at the same time (because I fell I ought to be using the Fuji) but the former seems to get used the most ...
Lee