scho
Well-known member
A6000+Rhinocam+Mamiya 55mm f/2.8 N. A 150 MP 8 image shot cropped 1:1 and resized.
Full size original image
Full size original image
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Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8+Rhinocam on A6000.
They indeed posses the clarity of medium format.
I ordered yesterday a A6000 and I also have 3 CF glasses in the drawer. You are making me whirl. lol!
Please show more. Or should I say: Stop!
Eduardo
If you already have some old MF glass from film days, then this is a fun way to put the lenses back to work again. Takes some patience to develop a work flow, but may be worth the effort if you want to print very large. I'm still trying to work around some issues with color vignetting when shooting 4x2 in portrait orientation, but otherwise no other major problems.Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8+Rhinocam on A6000.
Hi Lawrence,Thanks for your posts, Carl.
What have you found to be the highest useable iso that allows for good sized enlargements?
I've been shooting with a Sony A77 for the past two years and though DXO claims 801 iso for the high iso limit... I've found that even slightly underexposed 400 iso has color noise that kills fine feather detail of birds. (I have Topaz DeNoise and Nik Dfine and know how to optimize their use). If exposed properly at 400 iso, the A77 sensor is OK, but 800 would never work for me. I've also removed the SLT mirror as all of my birding work is done with long Leica APO glass that is manual focus... so the SLT mirror serves no purpose and there is no light loss with it's removal.
Since the A77II will have the same sensor as the A6000, I'm under the impression that it will be fine at around 600 iso but marginal beyond that. DXO claims 2/3 stop improved high iso range... which is not enough for me to consider an upgrade, apart from the improved EVF that would make manual focus with my Leica glass easier.
Thanks for any thoughts you might have on high iso with the A6000.
Lawrence
They indeed posses the clarity of medium format.
I ordered yesterday a A6000 and I also have 3 CF glasses in the drawer. You are making me whirl. lol!
Please show more. Or should I say: Stop!
Eduardo
If you already have some old MF glass from film days, then this is a fun way to put the lenses back to work again. Takes some patience to develop a work flow, but may be worth the effort if you want to print very large. I'm still trying to work around some issues with color vignetting when shooting 4x2 in portrait orientation, but otherwise no other major problems.
Yes but smaller sensors still can't make up for smoothness of tonality transitions or the benefits of having a larger sensor. I don't doubt the A6000 sensor is an excellent one for a second. I really like the Sony "formula" that they apply to their sensors. They produce the most "CCD-like" CMOS sensors on the planet.I took a look at DxO's info on three rather different Sony cameras: A6000, a77 and a900.
The A6000 is as good as the a900 in everything but dynamic range, for which it is a full f-stop ahead! So much for the quaint idea that the industry has made little progress in recent years in sensor performance - now we have an $800 Sony APS-C camera with 2009 full-frame performance - a terrific result.
It is also handily better than the a77 which suffers an SLT-induced hit, but is really a low ISO camera.
Sony A6000 versus Sony SLT Alpha 77 versus Sony Alpha 900 - Side by side camera comparison - DxOMark
It's also basically an even match for Nikon's D7100 - a $400 more expensive camera.
Mikal sorry I missed this and got your PM as well. I never got the chance to try the 135 1.8 on the A6000 . I used the A7 and my assistant used the A6000 with the 55mm 1.8 which looking at what he did it kept up pretty well with tracking. Im still in the belief its faster with the adapter than the A7 as I did try the a6000 with the 85mm playing around and it seemed to track very well. The trick I learned on tracking is you need to start with your subject with the middle center area than press half way and continue to hold and shoot as the subject is coming at you. You cannot lift your finger off it and try it off center. So lets say runway model coming at you your best to set her with middle center point and lock it in than as she moves towards you it will track her even if it jumps out of center of the AF points and stay with whatever AF points you have but you must maintain the half press to continue the tracking.Guy, when you rented the a6000 did you use the ZA 135/1.8 with it? How did it balance: was it front heavy and did you use a tripod? Which adapter did you use? How was the focusing: could you spot focus on fast focus or was it a wider type of focus?
I held one today at Pittman Photo in Miami. It was as light as a feather so I am not sure it would handle the constant weight of the ZA 135/1.8 and the Sony 70-200/2.8G.
Thanks for the input.