I now use the 7r to shoot full spectrum, full color, 590, 665, 720 and 830nm. The first conversion was in 665 and I used the 720 and 830 then a couple months later I had the camera re-converted to full spectrum and use the color filter, 590, 720 and 830. Long winded explanation to get to the answer but please bear with me.
The only filter I routinely use "Auto-ISO" on is the 830. In most cases the camera will select 100 however it will go much higher due to the shooting conditions. When using the other filters I normally will shoot at 50 ISO however I have gone to Auto. I also routinely shoot in Manual mode which allows me the flexibility to choose shutter and aperture.
Regarding noise and overall responsiveness - I've seen little noise (of course it's there if I shoot indoors at extreme ISO and faster shutter speeds but clears up opening the lens, slowing down the shutter and bracing the camera on tripod. My goal with this camera is getting away from tripod as much as possible so I'l careful what/where I shoot. Responsiveness can be arbitrary - for me - I have had no problems with the camera. I've been extremely pleased with the files it produces - so long as I do my job. I think the relationship between camera and operator is a partnership - the camera is only as good as the person operating it and occasionally I'll screw up and get a terrible file; then again if I keep my head the camera works well.
On why I decided to go FS. I wanted a camera that was capable of shooting all types of color and IR and going FS fits that bill. FS is "nice" while adding a filter for color is outstanding. Shooting 590, 720 and 830 all offer great files and allows me to carry one camera yet have the ability to use it anyway I want without any loss of functions.
Regarding WB. I used to shoot with an in-camera custom WB however now that I have more than 3-filters to choose from I needed a better way. My main landscape camera for many years has been a technical camera where I'm used to shooting an LCC for each lens on site. This LCC got me thinking of using that with IR work and began testing the effects that a LCC plate or disk would produce. Will a custom WB shot as an LCC be the same as in-camera; the answer is yes. It's also much easier in post as all I have to do is bring up the LCC performing a WB on it and using that for each file shot with that filter; this works equally well in C1-Pro and Adobe Bridge. This eliminates the need to "wash" the files in Sony software. In the end we all have our own workflow and we need to find the one that fits us the most.
Returning to filters...
I had a long conversation with Life Pixel when I had the 7r converted to FS on which filter to get for color; they recommended MaxMax CC1 filters. I went to MaxMax and brought 3-CC1 filters (one for each lens). They work however I found I wasn't totally pleased with the quality and quickly replaced one filter (thread concerns) with a Kolari filter. I was so pleased with the overall quality of the Kolori filter that I ordered the 590 from them. The 720 and 830 filters are a mixture of B&W and Hoya.
I now use a combination of Sony FE 16-35, 24-70 as well as the Mitakon 50mm f/0.95 and a medium format Hartblei 45mm Super Rotator lens. I can capture in the wave lengths using the same type filters. I've found 590 and 830 both work very well for black and white (right now the 830 is edging out the 590 however the 590 is a new filter for me). I've found FS and 720 and 590 produce interesting types of false color and the color filter produces outstanding color files (using both the MaxMax and Kolari filters).
Long winded response to several inquires.
don
I forgot to add one downside in doing the WB as I'm currently doing. While it makes my processing life so much easier it leaves a lot to be desired while shooting. If you shoot with an in-camera set WB the camera (at least the 7r) shows exactly what the sensor sees which is the color of the filter used. Shooting the way I do the sensor sees the filter as red with the overall scene as red. Not a major problem once you get used to what the filter produces in the end however it can take some getting used to.
Based on the above I'd recommend for first time users to go slow. Shoot with the WB set in camera so you'll be able to judge the results as you shoot knowing that you'll add an extra step in processing with another software package.