GFX 100 RF

[ptomsu]

Considering all similar available options of high end P&S Cameras I must say I am very intrigued by the GFX100RF.

Could easily become my travel cam for some time ....

 

[PeterA]

@PeterA - I am really trying to avoid, and convinced myself I won't, but I came back to look at what I have done and see if I do. So who knows, but I am just trying to make sure I avoid a GAS decision, and I get to really use this a lot because I already have too much good gear as it is.

If I was a daylight photographer it's an easy answer, but slightly more than half my work is at night.

If I didnt already have the X2D I'd jump on this camera. I've 'solved' for my GAS over the last few years and am happy with everything

1. X2D for everything and anything anytime anywhere
2. Leica S2 for fastr autofocus with 24-90 and 50mm APO and M lenses ( hardly ever used ) tbh pretty redundant now as happy snaps for family an Iphone just works.
3. Leica M10Mono for street and night time with a 24Elmar pretty much keeping quirte a few M lenses gathering dust on the side.

If you shoot a lot at night I dont think you will be happy with it - no IBIS is a miss for this reason ( IMO) unless you use tripod for night work - I'l allergic to tripods.

 

[Epstar83]

To me it really does feel like the digital reincarnation of the GF667W (or the Plaubel Makina 67W) which is a good thing. If you like the focal length that the 100 RF offers and don't mind working on a tripod in low light I think this is a very capable camera.

I'm wondering if Fuji will come out with a WCL converter for it to make it a 21mm equivalent? Paired with the sensors native 4:3 aspect ratio I could see a lot of architectural photographers getting benefit from that.

 

[raist3d]

If I didnt already have the X2D I'd jump on this camera. I've 'solved' for my GAS over the last few years and am happy with everything

1. X2D for everything and anything anytime anywhere
2. Leica S2 for fastr autofocus with 24-90 and 50mm APO and M lenses ( hardly ever used ) tbh pretty redundant now as happy snaps for family an Iphone just works.
3. Leica M10Mono for street and night time with a 24Elmar pretty much keeping quirte a few M lenses gathering dust on the side.

If you shoot a lot at night I dont think you will be happy with it - no IBIS is a miss for this reason ( IMO) unless you use tripod for night work - I'l allergic to tripods.

IBIS is not exactly needed If the subjects at night need to be frozen/they are moving. It all depends.

That said do I need this thing? No. I have pretty capable equipment already. I want to explore the possibility but I need to see a real benefit. So far that benefit seems to be the workflow for different "frame formats" and finesse in drawing of light. But yeah.

- Ricardo

 

[MGrayson]

I'm pretty sure that ISO's above 12,800 (and maybe a lower cutoff than that) are simply boosted in post. I base that on accidentally shooting a GfX100 at ISO 102,400, which came out VERY overexposed. But dropping the exposure five stops returned all the blown out detail.) In other words, shoot at 12,800, or as high as auto ISO goes, and just add exposure as necessary.

I'm still contemplating the possibility of a thumb grip. The top back edge is very busy (aspect ratio dial?), so I don't know what's possible. That and a Jim Kasson level lens evaluation will be the deciding factors for me. I personally don't think IBIS is necessary for wide-ish lenses.

Matt

 

[raist3d]

I'm pretty sure that ISO's above 12,800 (and maybe a lower cutoff than that) are simply boosted in post. I base that on accidentally shooting a GfX100 at ISO 102,400, which came out VERY overexposed. But dropping the exposure five stops returned all the blown out detail.) In other words, shoot at 12,800, or as high as auto ISO goes, and just add exposure as necessary.

[]
Matt

Well it all depends on the sensor, if it has double gain and other modes. In some cameras I have found that shooting at higher IsO it's best to do so in-camera and not in post. IIRC, on the Fujis with the X-mount 26MP sensor, it pays off to do this as you will get extra noise doing it in post IIRC. I know on Olympus EM5.3 is same once you cross past ISO 6400.

- Ricardo

 

[raist3d]

[]
If you shoot a lot at night I dont think you will be happy with it - no IBIS is a miss for this reason ( IMO) unless you use tripod for night work - I'l allergic to tripods.

IBIS doesn't do much for me at night because I am shooting moving subjects I want to freeze. Once you are shooting at 1/125-1/250, IBIS doesn't matter for like any focal length to 100mm in FF equivalent. Much less a 28mm.

- Ricardo

 

[PeterA]

IBIS doesn't do much for me at night because I am shooting moving subjects I want to freeze. Once you are shooting at 1/125-1/250, IBIS doesn't matter for like any focal length to 100mm in FF equivalent. Much less a 28mm.

- Ricardo

I cant freeze peole in motion in daylight at 1/125th and even with a 24mm 1/250th doesn't freeze motion in moving people on the street in broad daylight but that is beside the point anyway - for sure IBIS isn't an amenity that everyone requires all the time for me it is just nice to have . My hands arent get aany steadier as I age and when I take a prolonged absence form shooting ( like now) I also get out of practise

 

[raist3d]

I cant freeze peole in motion in daylight at 1/125th and even with a 24mm 1/250th doesn't freeze motion in moving people on the street in broad daylight but that is beside the point anyway - for sure IBIS isn't an amenity that everyone requires all the time for me it is just nice to have . My hands arent get aany steadier as I age and when I take a prolonged absence form shooting ( like now) I also get out of practise

Well if you can't freeze motion in daylight at 1/125 or even 1/250, then that makes the case even more so that IBIS is not necessarily needed

But for the record, I can freeze my subjects enough at night at 1/125->1/250. Of course it depends what you are trying to freeze. Freezing tennis players yeah, not so much.

- Ricardo

 

[PeterA]

Well if you can't freeze motion in daylight at 1/125 or even 1/250, then that makes the case even more so that IBIS is not necessarily needed

But for the record, I can freeze my subjects enough at night at 1/125->1/250. Of course it depends what you are trying to freeze. Freezing tennis players yeah, not so much.

- Ricardo

When I shoot with a Leica M the guaranteed freeze for broad daylight street shooting involving people at a walking pace is 1/500th. I'm not a 'freeze my subjects enough' type of thinker- I cant 'measure' 'enough' - this means different things for different people at different times for different objectives . Having said that my response has been a technical fact - in practise, I dont bother with freezing when I shoot - unless I really want to freeze and get sharp detail in moving objects/people.

IBIS helps me a lot with every type of shot I make in any hand held situation - because it gives me more elbow room with aperture/shutter speed and ISO. IF someone shoots differently has different needs/ expectations - well they may have less need for IBIS or can work around - as I do with Leica M.

As I stated atthe get go- the Fuji is a very nice idea- a cheaper IBIS less version and lens swap lacking of the X2D - the direct competitor for such a camera isnt in my opinion the Q3 -( price aside) - it is actually older versions of the X series Hasselblad sans IBIS.

 

[raist3d]

Well all I can say is that I am able to freeze my subjects enough on the street at around 1/250. Obviously this means that the way they are moving or the parts I am interested that are moving are fozen at this speed, so the "technical fact" you present has some context-dependent things.

I am certainly not attempting to dispute your IBIS wants and needs. I was just speaking for myself. Where I have found IBIS useful is when I am doing some contemplative-urban landscapes but that's not the majority of my street life photography (again, speaking for myself).

1/200


1/60 - that's certainly pushing it for me also



1/125



The first two shots the subjects were moving, the first was actually walking into the pizza place. And that's actually a crop so movement would have been exaggerated. I will admit that the 1/60 had a bit of luck there to be so frozen. The last one the subjects were doing ad-hoc interactions, etc. but 1/125 still did the moment.

And this last one also 1/60, in this case on purpose to track/have movement



1/50 F1.4 ISO 2500 original Fuji X-E1 that has absolutely zero IBIS


IBIS would help me zero here, though certainly if one tends to have shaky hands, it can help. I am lucky I don't have shaky hands (yet, knock on wood ), I am at this point finding myself wanting an EVF more than I cared before (which was almost nothing) because now I need close reading glasses though I can still more or less make composition without them.

 

[MGrayson]

That's quite an argument for using a fast lens. The 50/1.4 image really pops against its background. Perhaps IBIS isn't the issue here.

 

[raist3d]

That's quite an argument for using a fast lens. The 50/1.4 image really pops against its background. Perhaps IBIS isn't the issue here.

Yeah, I love this lens of Fuji probably the most. Very "character lens." But like everything else, you can def. do compelling compositions with longer DOF too. It all depends.

To give an idea of other DOF's...
The first shot is a GX9 with the Olympus F1.8 25mm prime cropped.
2nd shot is a Pentax Q with its 01 Prime (F1.9)
3rd shot is a Ricoh GR F2.8
4th shot is again the Pentax Q with its 01 Prime (F1.9).

 

[MGrayson]

Yeah, I love this lens of Fuji probably the most. Very "character lens." But like everything else, you can def. do compelling compositions with longer DOF too. It all depends.

To give an idea of other DOF's...
The first shot is a GX9 with the Olympus F1.8 25mm prime cropped.
2nd shot is a Pentax Q with its 01 Prime (F1.9)
3rd shot is a Ricoh GR F2.8
4th shot is again the Pentax Q with its 01 Prime (F1.9).

True that. As the saying goes, One is light, Two is composition, Three is everything else.