Hello, as some asked me via mail if focussing is or isn't an issue in studio here is my answer:
Focussing with a DP3m in studio is faster than focussing with any MFDB ever created, like H5D (and "true" focus lol).
This need some basic operations :
At first, no need dazzling lights to be able to focus; simple modelling lights are very sufficient. Once on your tripod, you can use MF or AF. I personally use MF with magnification, it is extremely quick. For that, understanding that the DP use contrast AF, you need to spot a good contrast zone. Before shooting, since we all want "focus on eye", set the AF size to the minimum (back arrow and dial). Then, set the focus area to be free of move. You will be able to chose you AF point even in diagonal.
After the "studio setting" of the DP, you can start to shoot. Always prefer an aperture in the range of f4, f6.3. Have enough room to be able to shoot your model in full portrait mode (you see foots and head). At this distance and aperture, minimal AF error will be invisible even at 100% so do not worry. The modelling light should reflect in at least one eye : This is your contrast zone !
So you can magnify to 100% and focus manually (the LCD display will be as crap as you can imagine but, after all, it work fine every times). The AF should work to, I use it sometimes, but it can hunt badly so always use MF, it is very fast. Shoot, process the file roughly in SPP, do not touch sharpness and export double size tiff 16bit Profoto RGB. You're done.
For fast aperture shoot, this is a little bit more tricky but very doable with some experimentation. Use f2.8 exclusively on close up portraits (between 50 and 90cm) and use the same method but ask your model to NOT MOVE.
Hope this help a bit