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Nice effort but a couple of comments Stephen (since you asked for it)Another experiment and I ask for comments on how I could better such images.
ISO 800, F22, 1/13th hand-held, FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS II + 1.4X at 280mm.
Thank you very much, I did not like the I one I took at 5.6, so i tried F8 and F22, but I thank you for the comment on F-Stop, should have used a tripod. What F stop, ISO, shutter speed would you use, as a base for such a shot? Would you open it to 2.8 (wide open) on my lens?Nice effort but a couple of comments Stephen (since you asked for it)
- Why f22? you don't need the depth of field for the moon (it's all infinity) so f 8 is still OK and you could even use f5.6.
- 1/13 th handheld at 280 mm, that's 4,5 stops slower than normal handheld so a really big faith in the IBIS and lens stabilisation,
opening your aperture would have given you a shorter time or you could use a tripod, but since the moon moves a shorter time is better anyway
- iso 800, again using a larger aperture will allow you to drop it, but I don't think it's a big problem with this shot
- use a longer lens (if you have one) so the moon is bigger in the shot
- There's some kind of ghost moon just left of the moon, internal lens reflection? If yes I would clone (or crop) it out
- When the moon is so small you could try to use trees or buildings as a silhouette in front to add more interest in the photo
I'm looking forward to your next try
Brilliant thank you very much for all that info. I suspected "Using the APS-C setting will give a bigger moon in the resulting image, but cropping full frame......".Hi Stephen, I am certainly not a specialist but I've done a few moon shots and my best effort was a lunar eclipse cycle in January 2019:
The full moon shot was at 400 mm (a 2x converter on a 200/2.8 prime lens), iso 100, f16, 1/125th sec and then cropped 1200x1200 pixels from a 24 MP APS-C sensor (so from 6000x4000 pixels) and on a tripod. Later in the sequence I had to increase my shutter speed and certainy when I had 1/25th sec or longer I could see the movement of the moon.
On a cloudless night you can expose the full moon using the simple "sunny 16" rule, i.e. f16 and a shutter speed of 1/iso, part moon or a slight haze leads to longer exposures required.
So to get a sharp moonshot I'd keep my shutter speed at least shorter than 1/50th second, stop the lens down 1 or 2 stops from full open, use a tripod and let iso float wherever it needs to be for that. Using the APS-C setting will give a bigger moon in the resulting image, but cropping the full frame shot after the fact will result in exactly the same result, so that really doesn't matter too much.