Menu
What's new
The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Stitching for maximum resolution?

W

wallpaperviking

Member
I have a project coming up where I need to provide 3 environmental portraits and 3 industrial interiors at extremely large, detailed print sizes. I have been playing around with bokehramas and/or Brenizer method and am really impressed with these for the portraits. Obviously quite slow and cumbersome but the look can really get close to that of an 810 shot. I am using a Fuji GFX 100S and the 110mm f2 and I end up with the equivalent of a 63mm 1.0 or something like that (GFX terms).

Just wondering what approaches I can use to replicate the detailI am getting in these portraits, that could bring it closer in quality to 810? There is the approach of using a double row Pano head but that all gets a little messy, especially when trying to keep verticals strait for the interiors.

Is there a tech cam setup that enables me to attach the GFX 100S to the rear, "flat" stitch at the rear for a bigger file and still have some room for a bit of shift at the front of the camera? I assume the Schneiders with their large image circle might be the best case for this? Ideally I would like to be able to "view" the image in its final stitched form, as opposed to having to previsualise it ie on a Ground Glass.

Is this possible? I would like to keep my GFX 100S as the base sensor/camera.

Thanks in advance! :)
 
P

Paul Spinnler

Well-known member
Take a mini view camera, e.g. an Arca rotafoot assembly to stitch easily. Bellows construction allows for a camera grip to protrude a bit while still keeping ability to stitch intact. Cambo also has a solution I think. Maybe Richard can comment.

RotaFoot

Une monture pour monter les appareils MILC (Mirrorless Interchangeable Lens Camera) sur vos chambres Arca-Swiss. Face aux F-metric ou classic, on conseille fortement l'Universalis pour l'utilisation du rotaFoot car on veut tous les décentrements (horizontal et vertical) à l'arrière. La M-Two...
www.arca-swiss-magasin.com
 
Last edited:
rdeloe

rdeloe

Well-known member
wallpaperviking said:
I have a project coming up where I need to provide 3 environmental portraits and 3 industrial interiors at extremely large, detailed print sizes. I have been playing around with bokehramas and/or Brenizer method and am really impressed with these for the portraits. Obviously quite slow and cumbersome but the look can really get close to that of an 810 shot. I am using a Fuji GFX 100S and the 110mm f2 and I end up with the equivalent of a 63mm 1.0 or something like that (GFX terms).

Just wondering what approaches I can use to replicate the detailI am getting in these portraits, that could bring it closer in quality to 810? There is the approach of using a double row Pano head but that all gets a little messy, especially when trying to keep verticals strait for the interiors.

Is there a tech cam setup that enables me to attach the GFX 100S to the rear, "flat" stitch at the rear for a bigger file and still have some room for a bit of shift at the front of the camera? I assume the Schneiders with their large image circle might be the best case for this? Ideally I would like to be able to "view" the image in its final stitched form, as opposed to having to previsualise it ie on a Ground Glass.

Is this possible? I would like to keep my GFX 100S as the base sensor/camera.

Thanks in advance! :)
Click to expand...
An Arca-Swiss F-Universalis puts shift on the rear and rise/fall on both front and rear. However, you can also shift a good 20mm on the front by simply sliding the format frame that holds the lens left and right in the clamp that holds it in place.

If you're looking for the angle of view of an 8x10 by shifting a 33mm x 44mm sensor around, you're going to need something that gives a lot more shift than an Actus or an F-Universalis (and also it won't work because the GFX design limits you to around 25mm of shift due to the sensor cavity). So that means you'll have to go with an approach that doesn't use flat stitching).
 
W

wallpaperviking

Member
rdeloe said:
An Arca-Swiss F-Universalis puts shift on the rear and rise/fall on both front and rear. However, you can also shift a good 20mm on the front by simply sliding the format frame that holds the lens left and right in the clamp that holds it in place.

If you're looking for the angle of view of an 8x10 by shifting a 33mm x 44mm sensor around, you're going to need something that gives a lot more shift than an Actus or an F-Universalis (and also it won't work because the GFX design limits you to around 25mm of shift due to the sensor cavity). So that means you'll have to go with an approach that doesn't use flat stitching).
Click to expand...
Thanks, I possibly was not clear.. I am not looking to stitch an 8 x 10 area, just enough that it brings the resolution up to 810 quality. By doing a Brenizer/Bokehrama I am combining roughly 6 images with the 110mm. This is a stitch using a Pano Head.

So with something like the Universalis, was thinking the same amount or even a little less. 4-6 stitched images. Is this possible with say the Schneider 60mm? Can you stitch to get an image that is say 80mm x 60mm and still maintain some front rise? All, whilst obtaining a wider F.O.V?

Thanks! :)
 
rdeloe

rdeloe

Well-known member
wallpaperviking said:
Thanks, I possibly was not clear.. I am not looking to stitch an 8 x 10 area, just enough that it brings the resolution up to 810 quality. By doing a Brenizer/Bokehrama I am combining roughly 6 images with the 110mm. This is a stitch using a Pano Head.

So with something like the Universalis, was thinking the same amount or even a little less. 4-6 stitched images. Is this possible with say the Schneider 60mm? Can you stitch to get an image that is say 80mm x 60mm and still maintain some front rise? All, whilst obtaining a wider F.O.V?

Thanks! :)
Click to expand...
OK, got it. You're not looking for the size, but rather the "quality". That's going to be very subjective. Are you talking an 8x10 contact print (hard to beat), or a scanned 8x10 negative (and if so, at what resolution, with what equipment). For the sake of simplicity, let's leave that alone. You want as many pixels as you can get. ;)

Which Schneider 60mm are you talking about? The little APO Componon HM 60/4 (same as APO Digitar 60/4) has a very small image circle. That's a hard no for what you want.

If you're looking for an image with sensor area of 80mm x 60mm (roughly), assuming reasonable overlap, you need 9 landscape images with a 33mm x 44mm sensor. That would give you 87.6mm x 65.8mm, and requires a 110mm image circle. Using a 100 MP sensor GFX body, you'd get 23,296 x 17,472 pixels (407 MP). I tried it once on my Toyo VX23D. It's a pain. I wanted to see how my Fuji GX 125mm f/5.6, a lens meant for 6x8 film, would have looked using the coverage it would have had on film. This is what it looks like. A roughly 63mm lens on a 33mm x 44mm sensor would have given close to the same angle of view.

I just checked and I could easily do this on my F-Universalis. It needs 21.9mm of left and right shift combined with 16.5mm of rise and fall. In other words, rise 16.5mm, shift +21.9mm, shift to 0, shift to -21.9mm; then drop down to 0, repeat the shifts; and drop down to -16.5mm, and repeat the shifts. There's your 9 images.

Is this worth doing? Only you can judge. I will say though that while I like the image, I don't think it is necessarily better than a single frame with a lens that had the corresponding angle of view. You're also going to be limited in the focal lengths you can use because you need a really big image circle. And if the lens isn't especially excellent, you're just going to end up with lots more pixels, rather than lots more image quality.

R. de Loe GFX11935-2-Pano.jpg
 
ggibson

ggibson

Well-known member
You could use pixel shift mode on the interior shots provided they are shot on tripod with little or no movement in the scene. That alone will spit out a 400MP image and if you really need more you can stitch multiple together from a long lens.
 
FloatingLens

FloatingLens

Well-known member
The look of a 5,6/300 lens on 8x10 is hard to obtain. Apart from the resolution that it yields on film, you would need an equivalent image circle and DoF for stitching, e.g. a 2,8/150 lens with massive image circle to stitch in a smaller area. I suppose stitching 8x10 is neither practical nor desirable.
I am not sure that such lenses of modern type exist. Alternatively, you could go for a very high resolving lens at smaller aperture, eg. f4. Even on 4x5 film it is hard to get the 8x10 ‘look’. A Xenotar lens can do it, or much older Tessar lens designs from before WW II, but they do not provide the bite that you are probably looking for.
 
P

Paul Spinnler

Well-known member
Shoot a Takumar 105 2.4 in a three or four way stitch. It has an IC of about 90mm and gives you this 3D environmental look. With a Pentax adapter on the arca. Buy a last gen multi coated version. They are relatively sharp.
 
J

John Leathwick

Well-known member
I describe here my experience of shooting flat stitched images with RZ 67 lenses on an F-Universalis and GFX 50SII that get close to the size that you're after.
My longer RZ67 lenses (75mm, 110mm, 140mm) can be pushed further than my 50mm or 210mm, with lateral shifts of 20mm if stopped down to F/16.

John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top