The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

What F-Stop range do you use

What F-Stop range do you use

  • F1.4

    Votes: 10 18.9%
  • F2

    Votes: 6 11.3%
  • F2.8

    Votes: 13 24.5%
  • F4

    Votes: 15 28.3%
  • F5.6

    Votes: 18 34.0%
  • F8

    Votes: 39 73.6%
  • F11

    Votes: 42 79.2%
  • F16

    Votes: 16 30.2%
  • F22

    Votes: 4 7.5%
  • F32

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters


Well-known member
I met a wildlife photographer in Antarctica who took head shots of King Penguins with f/29 to get eyes and beak in focus. Those pictures looked much better than those with f/11 where the beak was unsharp.
C1 has a diffraction correction in the lens tool menu but I don't know how good that works.

Paul Spinnler

Well-known member
I think one needs to really discuss at one point with practical examples how big of a problem diffraction really is in practice and especially for prints as a lot can be recovered in post nowadays.

On top, a bit of unsharpness looks analogue and if you add grain it looks great. If you look at analogue scans the detail is never clinically sharp and to mimic the look of an LF scan you would actually add a bit of Gaussian blur to the underlying image before adding grain and then slightly sharpening it. A bit of diffraction is not going to kill the image.

I think it’s completely overblown. F16 on SK and Rodie HR is still very good on IQ4 before sharpening even!


So the reason why i am asking, why do lens makers even still offer high apertures like F22 and F32, i was surprised to see that F22 was even still chosen.
The diffraction at F22 is a problem even at large pixel sensors. F16 is the highest i ever go.
Sometimes f.22 and f.32 and their diffraction, is your best friend to avoid color and especially patten moiré in certain materials and distances.


Well-known member
Tech cam-Alpa f10 on my Roddy 40 and even S-K 150 f10 or 11 for landscapes. GFX f8-11 mostly for landscapes. Leica M wide open to f5.6 depending on intended results. If portraits f0.95 to 1.4. SL3 f8-11 when shooting landscapes.

Bill Caulfeild-Browne

Well-known member
My go-to aperture is F8 on MF but I don't hesitate to go to F16 if I need to. I find C1's Diffraction Correction quite good.
Even so, how much does a little diffraction matter when making a large print ?

With Leica I'm usually at f4.


Well-known member
I‘m curious about the f1.4 lenses. Assuming the poll is for MF compatible lenses.
The widest aperture MF lens I have used is the old Mamiya 80 f1.9.