Francois_A
New member
This is an area I have gone to many times to test gear, lenses etc including my scan back which still blows the II-5 completely out of the water.
Rob
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This is an area I have gone to many times to test gear, lenses etc including my scan back which still blows the II-5 completely out of the water.
Rob
Thanks for the comments Steve. I agree, just spent the last half year working on a large project dealing with a variety of garments, and accessories. It never ceased to amaze me what would exhibit or not moire using the D3, also a 9 micron sensor. When it did rear its ugly head the only cure I found was to move in to half the distance, stitch two images together using my 85 PC lens and stopping down to F22 which all but cured the ailment.I would say that it is difficult to "test" moire handling as it is quite random. Twenty shots in a row might not exhibit any, and then the next ten could be murder.
More resolution/more photosites are the best remedy for handling moire. A 22MP digital back can easily produce moire in images. However, everything is relative. 22MP is better than 16MP, but not as good as 39MP, when it comes to moire. And relativity includes what subject, what aperture, distance to subject, etc. Many factors.
As far as ISO, I consider the Aptus II 5 a 25 to 200 ISO product (25 - 100 is ideal), although ISO 400 can be used with good exposures and high key subject matter in moderate print sizes.
Steve Hendrix
What provision was there that allows you to do multi pop flashes with this back? Nikons allow this attribute but did not see anything in the software, maybe I missed it allowing this.My complaints were always, that 25-50 ISO required pumping too much power with studio packs. I found myself doing multi pops for many shoots, even with multiple 2400W packs.
Skin tones are truly the best part about the sensor in the A22 and A-II5 (same sensor).
...I've done plenty images side by side with the Canon 5DII and an A22 and the files are close but moire rears it ugly head with the Leaf often. Leaf Capture has one of the best local correction tools for moire especially since it saves it to the raw file allowing conversion in any other raw processor.
Leaf Capture make nice conversions, tethering is rock solid, but as an app, not the most pleasurable to use. I ran more files through LR since I prefer color toning and color work that adds to an image. I loathe the curve tool in Leaf Capture. Never understood why they couldn't make normal curves and levels tools.
Battery life on the A22 wasn't great.
John
Great to see some more! So, ... it s a ISO 100 camera, with occasional grab shots in ISO 200 and a ISO 400 to better forget about. Maybe some trickery with software is still possible to extend a little further.Since there seemed to be some interest in noise levels at the higher ISO, thought I would make one more post of images for all to see. The setup is a simple basic table top deal with controlled conditions as much as the camera would allow me to do.
So the first image establishes the scene at 25 ISO, the crops with captions to explain. ......
Thanks glad you have found it helpful. I might post one more image, and believe me this one is a very quick and dirty one, but tells a lot of the IQ of this back. 25 second exposure @ ISO 25, jaw dropping results!Rob, the whole thread has been very informative. Again, thanks for the effort. A good style to do a little 'conversational product review'.
Rob if you push the slider to the right it is basically off.And that idiotic Grain control thing you can't turn off. This more than anything forced me to use LR.
Leaf are you listening? LOOSE THE GRAIN CONTROL. rant over.
It is a very strong consideration at this point, although I would not buy the Phamiya camera with it. The downsides as another poster pointed out is the Leaf software, and some attributes with the very large and mostly nice monitor. Its nothing like the one on my D3, nor are the user controls and interface.So, after all you consider to get one?
Thanks for the tip, but unfortunately this worked sometime and others not. By that I mean I would slide the control so that its in the middle for zero effect, then do something else with the image within Leaf Capture and all of a sudden the grain control would be right back where it was full bore tilt max. It was a constant battle with this thing. Hated it. Pushing the slider to the right btw will max it out to 50 which was the non defeat-able default of all images coming into LC. I did have 11.2.9 version of the software.Rob if you push the slider to the right it is basically off.
Yair
Understand. Lets hope C1 will support the Aptus II Line soon, including live view, (it is promised) and then the software stuff may be sorted out.It is a very strong consideration at this point, although I would not buy the Phamiya camera with it. The downsides as another poster pointed out is the Leaf software, and some attributes with the very large and mostly nice monitor. Its nothing like the one on my D3, nor are the user controls and interface.
If I do belly up to the bar for one most likely it would be with a tech view camera, the Linhof Techno being at the top of the list assuming these things ever become available.
......... Lots to ponder from here.
Rob
Thanks for the tip, but unfortunately this worked sometime and others not. By that I mean I would slide the control so that its in the middle for zero effect, then do something else with the image within Leaf Capture and all of a sudden the grain control would be right back where it was full bore tilt max. It was a constant battle with this thing. Hated it. Pushing the slider to the right btw will max it out to 50 which was the non defeat-able default of all images coming into LC. I did have 11.2.9 version of the software.
Thanks
Rob
Yep did all that too, hit the save command, the it would just flip back to the 50 mark again no matter how many times I made the change and hit save. Still I suspect I was doing something not quite right, but it might be in Leafs best interest to make the whole thing a bit more user friendly.Rob:
I'm wondering if it is possible you made the adjustment, but didn't save the settings? I haven't experienced this issue with the grain control.
Regarding the Linhof Techno, it is indeed available as I sold the first one in the USA about a month ago. It is a beautiful camera and quite modular within the Linhof family, accepting legacy lensboards and sliding backs (Linhof and KaptureGroup versions for the M679).
http://www.captureintegration.com/category/steve/
Steve Hendrix
What provision was there that allows you to do multi pop flashes with this back? Nikons allow this attribute but did not see anything in the software, maybe I missed it allowing this.
Have not tested the back for skin tones, mainly because its low on my list of things I do. Hopefully I will have time today before having to return it as the demo ends.
I am surprised to hear your 5D was even remotely close to the II-5. Just yesterday I had the opportunity to see some Nikon D3x files and while nice they did not get close to the II-5. Even the owner thought the same. Taken a step further I also compared some stitched D3 files using my D3/Cambo Ultima setup with Rody 105 digital lens. The composite files from the D3 were much larger but still even that did not compare to the II-5. For me at least this put an end to any argument about dslr vs mfdb image quality.
Agree totally about the software, what a pill. And that idiotic Grain control thing you can't turn off. This more than anything forced me to use LR.
Leaf are you listening? LOOSE THE GRAIN CONTROL. rant over.
Regarding battery life, so far it seems really quite good on this setup. Have only used one battery for the time I have had the back.
Thanks
Rob
If you're looking for Aptus-II 5 raw files I'd suggest you contact your local dealer who can get you raw files, answer any questions you have, and get you a hands on evaluation (the best "test files" you can get are the ones you shoot yourself in your normal style of your normal subjects).Sorry where are the images? I cannot see anything