J
jmvdigital
Guest
Question 1... does the RAW capture with the P1 work the same as the RAW capture from a DSLR? I know with a DSLR raw file (i.e., Canon) the WB setting is fairly irrelevant as it doesn't change the image data one bit, it just appends the WB number for display purposes later on. Changing that WB from say 2000K to 8000K in post doesn't give you any better or worse result than actually taking the images at 2000K or 8000K. That's the very nature of RAW, no processing on the data coming out of the sensor, as the sensor has no way to change it's sensitivity based on a WB setting.
Is this premise the same with these MFDBs?
Question 2... are there any tricks with that pain-in-the-butt thin plastic viewfinder insert that P1 gives you? After feeling like I was going to rip it in half while pulling off the protective tape... I squeezed it into the chamber, on top of the focusing screen. I closed the focusing screen. The problem now is that the black frame is not lining up vertically with my captured image. The frame is too high in the viewfinder, except now when I pop the focusing screen down, the plastic screen stays wedged up against the prism inside the body. Any tips appreciated.
Question 3... is there a merit to getting the split-view rangefinder focusing screen for manual focusing? It seems a bit difficult to tell critical focus in the viewfinder, at least with my eyes. Does the split-view screen inhibit the normal functions of the AF or metering system? Or can I get the best of both worlds with easy-to-see manual focusing and AF when I want it? Thoughts?
Thanks guys.
Is this premise the same with these MFDBs?
Question 2... are there any tricks with that pain-in-the-butt thin plastic viewfinder insert that P1 gives you? After feeling like I was going to rip it in half while pulling off the protective tape... I squeezed it into the chamber, on top of the focusing screen. I closed the focusing screen. The problem now is that the black frame is not lining up vertically with my captured image. The frame is too high in the viewfinder, except now when I pop the focusing screen down, the plastic screen stays wedged up against the prism inside the body. Any tips appreciated.
Question 3... is there a merit to getting the split-view rangefinder focusing screen for manual focusing? It seems a bit difficult to tell critical focus in the viewfinder, at least with my eyes. Does the split-view screen inhibit the normal functions of the AF or metering system? Or can I get the best of both worlds with easy-to-see manual focusing and AF when I want it? Thoughts?
Thanks guys.