Still accurate and current
There is this thread about how to post images (though I'm not quite sure if the information is completely up-to-date)
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/about-...-/54-how-post-images-threads-use-gallery.html
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Still accurate and current
There is this thread about how to post images (though I'm not quite sure if the information is completely up-to-date)
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/about-...-/54-how-post-images-threads-use-gallery.html
However I have seen a number of matched lens to sensor combos that no ICL/lens camera combo has ever beaten.Sure, but as always with fixed lens solutions "the lens will die with the camera" (like Tim Ashley once nailed it).
(...) Actually I do not own any pocket-size camera at all - not even a smart telephone (...)
Ha, yes that's exactly my time
The integrated lens/camea does have its issues in digital form, often they suffer from dust on the sensor usually requiring an expensive clean.Absolutely :thumbup:
It's just me being obsessed with separate optics, i.e. with camera systems where the optics can last for many decades and thus for many generations of camera bodies (my oldest lens is now 55 years old).
I don't mind the tool character and size of a camera system.
Actually I do not own any pocket-size camera at all - not even a smart telephone
In other words, It's just me, don't take too much notice (besides, I may have taken the headline too literally).
Jack, I think the operative phrase here is "... that has already been creatively photographed to death".You're going on a trip to Hawaii (or any other similar location that has already been creatively photographed to death) with the family. You decide to be a minimalist and take just one body and one prime -- yes, it has to be a prime. Can be ANY make of camera or lens. What do you take and why?
I immediately lean to the Df or D810 and 28 or 35 (28 1.4 asph or 35 ART because those are what I own). Tough decision when limited like this, but of those, I am slightly biased toward the Df/28 for the overall look of that combo.
I've written this down. Thanks.For me, one way to approach this issue is to shoot B&W ... especially in places that seem to scream for color ... like Hawaii.
- Marc
Great question, If I limit my choice to equipment I own I would say that until not long ago it would have been my Sony A850 and Minolta 35/2. Probably now it would be my Sony A7 with the Voigtlander Nokton 35/1.2 II since it's a lighter combination and I don't mind MF and it will give slightly better low light results.You're going on a trip to Hawaii (or any other similar location that has already been creatively photographed to death) with the family. You decide to be a minimalist and take just one body and one prime -- yes, it has to be a prime. Can be ANY make of camera or lens. What do you take and why?
Seen, prior to the MM being available, I shot with a M8, then the M9. Personally, I preferred the M8 B&W conversions over the M9. IMO, the MM beats both in terms of detail and rendering micro contrast. I use Nik Silver Efex to process the MM files.
Marc, do you have - or do you know of - illustrative and educational B&W side by side comparison shots, with and without a Bayer filter, and ideally accessible as RAW files, so that I (and others) can experience the difference directly in post-processing ?
I assume that Leica M9 and Leica MM shots would be the ideal candidates for a comparison.
I have often wondered how big the difference really is between a Bayer-filter capture and a non-Bayer ditto, when rendered as Black-and-White.
To me it would seem like a quite high price to pay, to relegate my occasional color captures to a telephone with all its tiny-sensor implications on image rendering, even if the primary goal for my outing was a B&W hunt.
Yeah, I keep fighting 'The Telephone Threat'
^^^ One of the main reasons I keep mine (The other is a color palette reminiscent of one of my old favorites -- Vericolor film! :shockedSteen,
AA, Bayer dye etc, notwithstanding, do not forget that you have a gem of a performer in your Df! It can take on the MM, etc for high ISO performance, tonality, etc. :lecture: