Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
The 40HR is my go to lens, I use it for the majority of my images. I don't notice any distortion but the again I almost exclusively shoot landscapes.As the title says opinions on the matter needed.
Does the distortion on the Hr40 matter that much for most people to be worthwhile to consider the schneider?
In my reading I read somewhere that the schneiders have less abberations. Is this true?
Not really. But if you shoot architecture then the ~0% distortion of the S/K 43 is one less thing to have to fix in post (it's also got a much bigger IC, which is useful for architecture). If shooting on a P1 back then C1 can do an amazing job removing the distortion of the R/S (just like the tool Alpa have on their website). But occasionally, especially with images containing lots of vertical/horizontal parallel lines, I've seen it struggle ... and then it becomes an incredible PITA trying to remove any obvious mustache distortion.Does the distortion on the Hr40 matter that much for most people to be worthwhile to consider the schneider?
These are both superb lenses and things like CA are well controlled (as you would expect at this price point). There are other issues - flare, for example - where the S/K has the edge simply because it's a far less complicated design with fewer surfaces for light to bounce around on.In my reading I read somewhere that the schneiders have less abberations. Is this true?
Flip.
The 40HR I have does have classic retro focus distortion. Objects become flattened and elongated.
Not as bad as the 32HRW.
Shift the 40 to 15mm and issues gets worse.
43mm was distortion free larger IC. Great for panning.
Color cast will not be an issue with the IQ4 and you won’t need the CF. I don’t need it on the 35XL which is impressive.
Paul C
Another one for the 43xl here, it's very sharp and even across the field and you can easily do two shot stitches, if not four(matches about the 23mm if you go 15mm to each side and 20 to top).
If anybody else has the 43xl here with the 150, could they do me the immense favor of shooting an LCC reference shot (or a neutral wall or something) with the back shifted about 15-20mm and risen/fallen the same?
I suddenly started getting tiling issues with the image divided in to four quadrants with differing exposures and very obvious lines caused by the difference in between. I'm pretty sure I did not have this issue about a month ago but I want to check with others to make sure they don't suffer the same before contacting phase one.
Thanks!
Hello Christopher, Do you have a LCC plate? That is the easiest way to chsck, though an out of focus ceiling works as well. It shouldn't really be happening with the 40 and 32 rodis as they are retrofocal. In wondering if it's something else like a firmware update messing with the factory calibration of tiles somehow.Same problem with the IQ150, 32rodi, 40rodi and 43xl. The tiling starts with minor shifts and is worse the wider the lens. I will have to do more tests, but for that I would like to have a blue sky and we don’t have that here at the moment.
I'm shooting the Roden 40HR-W on Arca Rm3Di, Factum, and Universalis w/ the IQ4150. I've not seen the tiling issue when maxing out the shifts or under any circumstances, but certainly the IC vignetting is an issue beyond 10mm. I have been able to clean up the vignetting up to 10mm and even beyond, but that has depended upon the image content as it can be an issue for cleaning up if the content is complex vs a clear blue sky. I'm finding the "stock" Roden 40mm Lens Correction within C1 can handle cleaning it up well as long as I stay within 7.5, especially if I remember the shift movement... :-/Another one for the 43xl here, it's very sharp and even across the field and you can easily do two shot stitches, if not four(matches about the 23mm if you go 15mm to each side and 20 to top).
If anybody else has the 43xl here with the 150, could they do me the immense favor of shooting an LCC reference shot (or a neutral wall or something) with the back shifted about 15-20mm and risen/fallen the same?
I suddenly started getting tiling issues with the image divided in to four quadrants with differing exposures and very obvious lines caused by the difference in between. I'm pretty sure I did not have this issue about a month ago but I want to check with others to make sure they don't suffer the same before contacting phase one.
Thanks!
Hello Robert, Thank you for sharing, it does help clear whether rodenstocks have any tiling in general. I was wondering if perhaps I and Christopher were running to some other issue that might crop up post-purchase or with certain units.I'm shooting the Roden 40HR-W on Arca Rm3Di, Factum, and Universalis w/ the IQ4150. I've not seen the tiling issue when maxing out the shifts or under any circumstances, but certainly the IC vignetting is an issue beyond 10mm. I have been able to clean up the vignetting up to 10mm and even beyond, but that has depended upon the image content as it can be an issue for cleaning up if the content is complex vs a clear blue sky. I'm finding the "stock" Roden 40mm Lens Correction within C1 can handle cleaning it up well as long as I stay within 7.5, especially if I remember the shift movement... :-/
Here's a 0-shift image, noting the top was cropped out to remove some of the necessary sky (for composition) and a smidge cropped out at the bottom, also for composition.
Not sure this really helps answer your question or address your concern, but it does reflect what an 40/IQ4 combo returns. Near the center of the image in the full size print, one can see the feather in the fisherman's hat, distinct rocks at the top of the volcano, and crisp blades of grass alongside the rocks at my feet - even with 15-20 mph wind gusts and the ES at 1/15, ISO 50, f7.1.
Cheers,
Robert
View attachment 140100
Hope you get better soon!I was completely under the weather the past few days. The flue really got me. I will have to catch up on some work, but should be able to test more on Wednesday/Thursday.
I thought tiling was a thing of the past with the CCD backs. But apparently it's back with the 150 :-(I suddenly started getting tiling issues with the image divided in to four quadrants with differing exposures and very obvious lines caused by the difference in between. I'm pretty sure I did not have this issue about a month ago but I want to check with others to make sure they don't suffer the same before contacting phase one.
Thx! I’m already much better, but now work is catching up. Or wait, I have to catch upHope you get better soon!
Do you still need this done I have a 43mm where I can test this for you.Another one for the 43xl here, it's very sharp and even across the field and you can easily do two shot stitches, if not four(matches about the 23mm if you go 15mm to each side and 20 to top).
If anybody else has the 43xl here with the 150, could they do me the immense favor of shooting an LCC reference shot (or a neutral wall or something) with the back shifted about 15-20mm and risen/fallen the same?
I suddenly started getting tiling issues with the image divided in to four quadrants with differing exposures and very obvious lines caused by the difference in between. I'm pretty sure I did not have this issue about a month ago but I want to check with others to make sure they don't suffer the same before contacting phase one.
Thanks!
Hello boinger, we seem to have established with two other sources that the tiling/quadrants are here to stay when working on the extremes of the lens. If you don't mind, I wouldn't mind a 15 shift 20mm rise example just for comparison in case it helps me understand the change between shoots. With a stable camera like the cambo with the shift detents, pre-made LCCs largely handle the issue and the rest can be retouched.Do you still need this done I have a 43mm where I can test this for you.
Sure thing. Did you want a lcc plate shot? or did you want a actual picture?Hello boinger, we seem to have established with two other sources that the tiling/quadrants are here to stay when working on the extremes of the lens. If you don't mind, I wouldn't mind a 15 shift 20mm rise example just for comparison in case it helps me understand the change between shoots. With a stable camera like the cambo with the shift detents, pre-made LCCs largely handle the issue and the rest can be retouched.
LCC would do if its just as easy.Sure thing. Did you want a lcc plate shot? or did you want a actual picture?
I do see tiling in my camera as well.LCC would do if its just as easy.