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Fun with Medium Format FILM Images!

Nokton48

Nokton48

Active member
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here's Peco Jr with PJ1/325 Adapter with spring-loaded ground-glass screen, 6.5x9cm, for universal darkslide 6.5x9cm with Normal Double Groove Has four heavy clamps that keep the film holders tight in the back. As you can see the Back came with Single Shot and Double Shot 6.5x9cm Double Rail Holders. In a bundle I am hoping it works together since it came to me as a bundle. And also you can see I have a lot of 6.5x9cm sheet film in many flavours ready to load into these holders. The camera is now fully light trapped which has taken a while to get it right but now it is done and ready to test. I did try a quick roll of 120 in the Makina Roll Film 6x9cm Back and this thing is a blast to use.

Makiflex with PJ1325 Universal Normal Double Groove Back and Double Groove Holders by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
Vince Lupo

Vince Lupo

Well-known member
I finally ran a roll of film through my Contessa Nettel Deckrullo Tropical yesterday. It's a 6x9 glass plate camera with a focal plane shutter, but I had the bright idea to try to adapt a roll film back to it. A few trials and errors later and it seems to work. There was a light leak in the dark slide slot, but I think I figured out a cure for it. We'll see.

With Delta 100.


Contessa Devils Den2 by Vince Lupo, on Flickr


Contessa Devils Den4 by Vince Lupo, on Flickr
 
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M

MartinN

Well-known member
Mamiya RZ, Sekor Z 180mm, Ilford HP5.

Really dilute 1:100 Rodinal is good for the HP5.

However, my recent trips with the RZ is more for learning the quirks of the AE Magnifying hood as exposure meter.
It is sensitive as hell and more of a lottery machine than a reliable meter, so I have to always check the very darkest part of the image.
Manual is the way to go, when the darkest is determined. (And/or a few ISO stops decreased for expired film, or overly hot sensor).






 
Nokton48

Nokton48

Active member
Makiflex Retro 320 - 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

9x12cm Foma Retro 320 cut film, exposed at EI 125. Plaubel Makiflex Standard camera body, Kern-Arau 360mm F11 Repro Process lens, exposure 1/15 sec at F22, Developed in straight Microdol-X developer, 30 minutes development at 18C, in a JOBO Multitank 5. Scanned on Epson 4490 scanner. The negative is cropped somewhat (about 6.5cmx9cm) for easy scanning. Observations: Even at 30 minutes development, the negatives are quite low contrast. Also, there is a dark blue antihalation dye on the back of the film, which turned my Microdol-X BLUE! And it even turned my Kodak Rapid Fixer BLUE! After thirty minutes washing, all traces of the dye was completely rinsed away. I LIKE THIS FILM! I am so glad I have it. Of course, I am NOT following the FOMA instructions, just going by my own intuition. Since this film is not available in 120 size, this is a good alternative for me.
 
Vince Lupo

Vince Lupo

Well-known member
Trying to get back into shooting with my Ermanoxes...

From one of our many nature walks -- not a particularly devastating photo, but just trying to get back into the Ermanox groove. Shot on Pan F in 127 format, and I added some colour well, just because (and considering the camera was made in 1924, I think for this subject matter it works okay). Not too hateful I don't think -- only thing I do wish is that I gave just a bit more space on the right. Ah well next time.


Spring Walk Riley Colorized by Vince Lupo, on Flickr
 
G

gurtch

Well-known member
I like it Vince, especially knowing the history of that camera. As a matter of my education, how did you colorize the image? Thanks for posting. I just got my Nikon Coolscan 8000 scanner up and running and will from time to time scan some of my old negs.
Dave
 
Vince Lupo

Vince Lupo

Well-known member
gurtch said:
I like it Vince, especially knowing the history of that camera. As a matter of my education, how did you colorize the image? Thanks for posting. I just got my Nikon Coolscan 8000 scanner up and running and will from time to time scan some of my old negs.
Dave
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave - I just used the brush tool in PhotoShop with the opacity set to 10%, and then adjusting overall and specific colour hue/saturation as needed. I’ve also tried the ‘colorize’ option in the ‘neural’ filters but I find it can be a bit heavy-handed, so I find doing it myself with the brush tool works better (although it takes a lot longer). I’m scanning the 127 film and glass plates from the Ermanoxes with an Epson V850.
 
G

gurtch

Well-known member
Thanks Vince. I bought two specialized programs to color old B&W images......But one is "AI" and it is supposed to "guess" at the colors and apply them. The second program you have to roughly "paint" each section of the image and the program is supposed to find boarders. The first does not do a great job most times, and the second demands more patience than I now have. Thanks for the info.
Dave
 
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