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Fun with the Hasselblad 907x

Godfrey

Well-known member
Godfrey, do you generally recommend to use those lenses in 3:2 and 1:1 crop mode on the CFV II?
I've only done testing with them in 1:1 crop mode and they perform well that way. I'm sure other crops would work too—the vignetting is mostly at the corners of the 44x33 format—but I'd have to experiment more once I do some actual shooting with them to see what else I could get from them.

XPan format should be possible without vignetting ... 2.7:1 WxH or ~44x16 on the CFVII 50c sensor, about a 24Mpixel image ... but I'd have to test. At 44mm wide, you are working a bit out of the designed-for format width so I expect the extreme ends of the frame might not be quite as sharp as you might want for landscape work. I'm generally not so concerned with that issue for my work... most of the time. :)

G
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
So, of course, I do actually have a bunch more 907x photos I haven't finished rendering yet ... :D

I picked these four out of my 'walks' set as being reasonably compatible in aesthetic to post together.


Palm Tree & Shrub by Hotel Windows - Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 907x + XCD 45P f/4



Faux Arches - Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 907x + XCD 45P f/4



Porch & Sitting Bench - Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 907x + XCD 45P f/4



Gutter Drain Against Electricals - Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 907x + XCD 45P f/4

Quarter-rez (1600x1600 pixels) posted here. Click through to Flickr on any of the photos to access up to a half-rez version.

enjoy!
G
 
I've only done testing with them in 1:1 crop mode and they perform well that way. I'm sure other crops would work too—the vignetting is mostly at the corners of the 44x33 format—but I'd have to experiment more once I do some actual shooting with them to see what else I could get from them.

XPan format should be possible without vignetting ... 2.7:1 WxH or ~44x16 on the CFVII 50c sensor, about a 24Mpixel image ... but I'd have to test. At 44mm wide, you are working a bit out of the designed-for format width so I expect the extreme ends of the frame might not be quite as sharp as you might want for landscape work. I'm generally not so concerned with that issue for my work... most of the time. :)

G
Thanks! I am looking for some adaptable 135 lenses for wide angle work, preferably ZM. Not sure how any of the Zeiss Biogons would fare... any thoughts?

I know that extreme ray angles are going to be a problem, but 3:2 and 1:1 crops should make them perform at pretty much their optimum, right?
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Thanks! I am looking for some adaptable 135 lenses for wide angle work, preferably ZM. Not sure how any of the Zeiss Biogons would fare... any thoughts?

I know that extreme ray angles are going to be a problem, but 3:2 and 1:1 crops should make them perform at pretty much their optimum, right?
I have no personal experience with the Zeiss M-mount lenses. However, I did a little testing with the Voigtländer HyperWide 10mm f/5.6 Aspheric and was quite amazed with how well it performed, despite the toothy vignetting created by its non-removable lens shade. This is a full-frame capture to show the vignetting:


Voigtländer HyperWide 10mm f/5.6 Aspherical

To give you a point of reference of the coverage possible with this lens, this is a full frame capture from the same position with the XCD 21mm lens, widest lens available in native format:


Hasselblad XCD 21mm

Cropping to just within the hard vignetting point with the Voigtländer 10mm nets a result that is easily 25 to 30 degrees wider angle of view on the diagonal, and the corner/edge rendering at that crop is still pretty darn good!

I experimented also with my Leica R 19 and 15 mm lenses, although I wasn't expecting much. Due to the vignetting, I have to say there's no useful coverage gain over the XCD 21. The 10mm is pretty special.

By and large, best thing to do is to invest in a couple of mount adapters (they're about $150 each IIRC) and experiment with the lenses you have. Some lenses do surprisingly well, others not. I have both Leica M and R mount adapters from Fotodiox. I use the R adapter quite a good bit, mostly for use with the Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm and negative digitization work so far.

G
 
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cgastelum

Member
Hi,

The viewfinder for my Alpa is a Mamiya Super 23, 50mm OVF. you can get it for +/-$50 on ebay and it is designed for 6x9 coverage.

The advantage of the GFX was the faster autofocus, eye detect and lower price. The drawback was the weight / size and the fact that I had to use a diferent digital back for my Alpa (Credo50) which made it even more cumbersome to travel with. 95% of the time I left the GFX home and went out with my little xpro2 and had all this expensive equipment home collecting dust. I have the GFX since late 2017 and only shot 4,200 photos with it. The 907x +50c fits in my little shoulder or sling bag and I can take it anywhere specially with the 45p lens. I have a couple of projects in mind once travel is possible and wanted a small MF camera to take with me, on top of that I can mount it on my ALPA and edit all my photos the same way, with a very similar color consistency.

My Film back is the older hasselblad 12 type so you advance it manually. this way it can be used with the ALPA body and the V adapter.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Carlos

Beautiful set up! I especially like the OVF on your ALPA—if I’m not mistaken, than looks like the OVF from the Polaroid 600se 75/5.6 lens. Classic. Two questions:

1) Can you explain why you decided to move from the GFX system to the HX/XCD system?

2) Is your film in the photo back usable with this setup? Do you use it on the ALPA body?
 

ndwgolf

Member
Just thinking out loud............I am thinking there is no need to get a XCD to V adapter as the CV50 would probably work better on the 503CW verses putting the V lenses on the 907X......does that sound about right?
Neil
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Just thinking out loud............I am thinking there is no need to get a XCD to V adapter as the CV50 would probably work better on the 503CW verses putting the V lenses on the 907X......does that sound about right?
I have the XV Adapter (and the XH Bracket (tripod adapter foot)) as well as 500CM bodies. I find I use about as frequently one to the other ... there are times when I want to use the lens shutter and 500CM, there are other times when I want to use the eshutter and the adapter is a lot lighter ... and with the tripod adapter foot, it's easier to flip the format to Portrait mode when you want that orientation on the full 907x format.

In other words, there's sufficient reason for me to have both. :D

G
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
907x + CFV II 50c + 4/45P
Slowly getting more familiar with the 907x . Occasional receiving , no lens attached . A slight move of the back in the attached position , clears the situation .
Happend a couple of times . I carefully cleand the contacts .

Here a testshot from the tripod at f8 . I took this image with f4 to f22 . I find the images for all apertures in very good sharpness , occording to the optical limits of course .

B_0179.@.PP.F..jpg

I have big trouble to define the correct size of the image , I want to insert . Since migration of the forum .
I can't find the specifications . Can anyone please help ?
 

spb

Active member
Oh yes I need to know this too. That's why I gave an URL to my shots taken with the GFX50R.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
@ Godfrey . How do you achieve such sharp images of that size to insert in your post ? ? ?
Thank you for the compliment!

I do my finish rendering and such in either Phocus or Lightroom. If Phocus, I bring the result into LR then. I use the Slideshow module to create the drop-shadow framing I want. I create JPEG files to export from that (option key changes the 'export to PDF' button to 'export to JPEG') and set the output to be 3000x3000 (for 33x33 square crop) or 3000x2250 (for 44x33 full frame) pixels dimension. These files are imported back into LR and the IPTC metadata is copied from the master file into the JPEG for each, then metadata is saved to the files.

At this point, the files are uploaded to Flickr.com. For each photo, I copy the BBCode output from the Share button with the output parameter set to 1600x1600 or 1600x1200 (about) for posting here. I edit out the unnecessary information from the default BBCode output when I create the post to display the file here (or anywhere else on the web).

Using this process means that my files are all located in ONE place online no matter which forum or group I'm sending them to, and i can control the size of the display image with very good granularity as well as give access to half-resolution images through flickr directly for those who would like to see larger sized versions.

The process is dependent upon my understanding of just how much input and output sharpening I need to apply to a 6000x6000 or 6000x8000 image file in order that a 3000x3000 or 3000x2250 file looks good, of course, and I can only point to lots and lots of time (20+ years) and experience sharpening my photos for that. ;)

G
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Godfrey, I am trying these setting out. If you have any comment on these I would welcome them.
You should never use the ProPhoto RGB output profile with a JPEG format output file. ProPhoto RGB color space is a maximized gamut that requires a 16-bit per component image, it's intended to allow the largest color space possible so that you can edit images without risk of hitting clipping limits. JPEG is a lossy, scalable output image format which is defined to be 8-bit per component. When you mix the two, clipping issues become unpredictable.

For JPEG output, choose sRGB output profile. This is a much more restrictive color gamut modeled after 1990s CRT display monitors, but it remains still the greatest common denominator for color profiling of images for computer displays. AdobeRGB 1998 is the other option suitable for JPEG images, but this output profile is intended to model the color gamut of a web press printing engine rather than a computer display: It produces a slightly flatter, broader color space that enables a little more editability for the JPEG format when a little more post processing might prove necessary after output originals are made.

G
 

cgastelum

Member
Hi,

Thanks Godfrey for all the info you share on this forum.
The 907cx is excellent for customizing it the way you want it. this is the current incarnation of mine:

IMG_2983.jpg
I know the Official Hasselblad grip gives more control, but this works for me. It keeps the L bracket on for when I need quick tripod mounting, and also adds a place for mounting either a flash or flash trigger.
 

jng

Active member
The left-handed grip is very elegant! This is reminiscent of the original Hasselblad left-handed flash bracket grip, which I used when shooting my SWC hand-held. Now, if Hasselblad ever comes out with a 100 Mp CFV back...

SWC_w_flash_bracket.JPG

Hi,

Thanks Godfrey for all the info you share on this forum.
The 907cx is excellent for customizing it the way you want it. this is the current incarnation of mine:

View attachment 176190
I know the Official Hasselblad grip gives more control, but this works for me. It keeps the L bracket on for when I need quick tripod mounting, and also adds a place for mounting either a flash or flash trigger.
 

spb

Active member
You should never use the ProPhoto RGB output profile with a JPEG format output file. ProPhoto RGB color space is a maximized gamut that requires a 16-bit per component image, it's intended to allow the largest color space possible so that you can edit images without risk of hitting clipping limits. JPEG is a lossy, scalable output image format which is defined to be 8-bit per component. When you mix the two, clipping issues become unpredictable.

For JPEG output, choose sRGB output profile. This is a much more restrictive color gamut modeled after 1990s CRT display monitors, but it remains still the greatest common denominator for color profiling of images for computer displays. AdobeRGB 1998 is the other option suitable for JPEG images, but this output profile is intended to model the color gamut of a web press printing engine rather than a computer display: It produces a slightly flatter, broader color space that enables a little more editability for the JPEG format when a little more post processing might prove necessary after output originals are made.

G
I will second the others and thank you for the information that you are able to impart from all your experiences Godfrey. I have amended my Export profile.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
The left-handed grip is very elegant! This is reminiscent of the original Hasselblad left-handed flash bracket grip, which I used when shooting my SWC hand-held. Now, if Hasselblad ever comes out with a 100 Mp CFV back...

View attachment 176191
I have to get off my duff and finish the left hand grip I've been working on, very slowly. :)

If I had any faith that a full 56x56 format back which would work well with the Biogon 38mm f/4.5 T* lens would be available at some time soon and at a price that I could afford, I'd not have sold my SWC. Sigh; I don't. I used the money from selling the SWC to help fund the 907x and XCD 21mm lens, and I'm happy with that combination. :)

G
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Having some fun playing with Phocus Mobile 2 for iPhone this morning, I caught our Halloween Bear waiting patiently for his day on the dining room table...


Eeky, Waiting for Halloween - Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 907x + 45P, iPhone 11 Pro tether, iPad Pro 11" edit from raw
ISO 400 @ f/4 @ 1/25

Manual focus too, using peaking for assistance. I dont see any way to get focus magnification on the iPhone version of Phocus Mobile 2 yet, but I just downloaded it this morning. :)

G
 
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