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Hoods on Tech Cams

PeterA

Well-known member
What I have ordered - just one of the reasons I think the artec is a well thought system.
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
Danke Jürgen
I contacted a sales and tech rep from Lee in the UK and he said the Wide Angle lens hood is designed to cover lenses up to 95 degree viewing angle.
My 32 got 107 degrees and your 28mm is probably around 115 degrees.
I am surprised that you have not experienced vignetting even on your CFV 50.
Best Grischa
Grischa

I can Not believe what the guy told you .
If the LEE WA shade is in its "widest angle position" , it still puts shade on your
WA lens and the bellows angle is far above 95 degrees .
 

rupho

New member
Jürgen
I just tried the Lee wide-angle hood with a full frame sensor and the HR32
The back was set in landscape orientation and it's OK with no movements but at around 4 mm rise / fall it shows the hood when fully extended .
When I move the shade all the way back to the lens I can go up to 7 or 8 mm
So it's really no useable IMO as pointed out by the Lee rep.
But on a good note I have to say it is very well built and not wobbly at all
Maybe with a 35mm or a smaller back it will work even shifted like a charm.
Are there other options around for the 32 HR?
Grischa


Grischa

I can Not believe what the guy told you .
If the LEE WA shade is in its "widest angle position" , it still puts shade on your
WA lens and the bellows angle is far above 95 degrees .
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
There's been a lot written here regarding the use of hoods while using a technical camera and thought I'd reintroduce the setup that has served me well for several years. The Flair Buster. I picked up something similar to this a couple years ago and found it worked. I began using this before I got the viewfinder and still do with the workflow just slightly modified (set scene using the viewfinder, remove and replace it with the flair buster. Or just hold the black card up to block any flair and keep using the viewfinder). One size fits all and it's under $1,000 (actually is runs $29.95).



A couple things have changed since I took this shot several years ago. The handles have been replaced with wooden grips, the P45+ was upgraded to a P65+ and I now have a viewfinder, other than that it remains the same.
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
Jürgen
I just tried the Lee wide-angle hood with a full frame sensor and the HR32
The back was set in landscape orientation and it's OK with no movements but at around 4 mm rise / fall it shows the hood when fully extended .
When I move the shade all the way back to the lens I can go up to 7 or 8 mm
So it's really no useable IMO as pointed out by the Lee rep.
But on a good note I have to say it is very well built and not wobbly at all
Maybe with a 35mm or a smaller back it will work even shifted like a charm.
Are there other options around for the 32 HR?
Grischa
Grischa

When you extend the hood , you will see that its shading angle changes .
I do not understand why you fully extend the hood when using it with the
HR32 . The resulting shading angle now does not correspond to the AOV of the lens .
 

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
There's been a lot written here regarding the use of hoods while using a technical camera and thought I'd reintroduce the setup that has served me well for several years. The Flair Buster. I picked up something similar to this a couple years ago and found it worked. I began using this before I got the viewfinder and still do with the workflow just slightly modified (set scene using the viewfinder, remove and replace it with the flair buster. Or just hold the black card up to block any flair and keep using the viewfinder). One size fits all and it's under $1,000 (actually is runs $29.95).



A couple things have changed since I took this shot several years ago. The handles have been replaced with wooden grips, the P45+ was upgraded to a P65+ and I now have a viewfinder, other than that it remains the same.
I used one of these back in the day - I'd forgotten what they are called. B&H has them. This plus a couple of pieces of black foamcore and you're in business. Not so hot in the wind, though.
 
N

NROCH

Guest
I use the 141mm Arca lens hood with my RL3D, as recommended by Martin at Arca. I was thinking to go with the 110m size (69) to try and save on space, but the extra 31mm has been very useful and it's not too much of a size difference. The widest lens I currently have is a 35, both the HR and XL.
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
The endless lens shade / bellows hood journey

My lens shade / bellows hood journey has finally come to an end now .
How happy I am .
I have made up my mind and decided to design my own adapter/hood combination . The best is still the "rod system" .
My intention was to use as much as possible of already existing components and not to invest money again into an other bellows hood system .

The ALPA adapter from : iPhone Mounting Bracket from NuvoFocus

gave me the final idea and i activated the rest of my brain and "designed" my own bellows hood gear .
Nothing new really . Ideas from ARCA (20 yeras old) and CAMBO and of myself , of course .
What I wanted , is to integrate the ALPA iPHONE holder .
What I finally ended up with is an adapter where you mount the ALPA iphone holder shoe . Easier , simpler any cheaper .

As bellows , I used the LEE standard bellows hood which requires the M86 adapter ring .
I produced two bellows holder , one for the LEE standard and the LEE WA bellows and one just for the LEE standard bellows .
There is a minor change required for the WA holder and bellows .

Here you can see the adapter for the ALPA STC and for the LEE standard bellows .

View attachment 61123

View attachment 61124

Have a look to the reworked rod , which allows you to turn the camera by 90 degrees and the bellows holder will stay in place .

The ALPA iPHONE holder shoe is removed in the lower image .

View attachment 61125

The WA bellows in horizontal position

View attachment 61126

But also posiible in vertical position

View attachment 61127

The iphone of course does not make much sense here .
I have rods of different length , 10 , 12,5 and 14,5 cm .
That covers all my needs .

I decided to prefer the LEE bellows , as they are a bit wider than the ARCA bellows .

View attachment 61128

But the ARCA bellows still work fine with the RODIE 40mm .

So when I am out shooting and by luck an other ALPA guy comes along , I can always help out with "bellowing" . :ROTFL:

I have also an adapter for my SWA . Images will follow .
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Btw, I found another solution for the STC where I have an Arca Swiss compatible plate on both the bottom and the handle side (RRS MPR 73 in my case) and a Long Flare Buster.

If you use the RRS cold shoe mount adapter (FA-QRCS2) -> Flare Buster, and RRS QR Mount for Accessories (FA-QRM), then you can attach the flare buster to the body while still using the standard viewfinder. If you rotate the STC for rise/fall or shift then you can attach the flare buster to the spare plate.

I'll post pictures when I'm back at the end of the week if anyone wants to see.
 

rga

Member
Btw, I found another solution for the STC where I have an Arca Swiss compatible plate on both the bottom and the handle side (RRS MPR 73 in my case) and a Long Flare Buster.

If you use the RRS cold shoe mount adapter (FA-QRCS2) -> Flare Buster, and RRS QR Mount for Accessories (FA-QRM), then you can attach the flare buster to the body while still using the standard viewfinder. If you rotate the STC for rise/fall or shift then you can attach the flare buster to the spare plate.

I'll post pictures when I'm back at the end of the week if anyone wants to see.
I would appreciate seeing images Graham. Thanks,
Bob
 

rga

Member
Thanks Graham. That's extraordinary! I'll study it.
Any issues with wind causing vibrations?
Bob
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
Any issues with wind causing vibrations?
Bob
Wind will always be a problem with these kind of paddles .
I remember , when I was shooting LF , I once pulled out the darkslide , but left it sticking at the far end of the cartridge . The wind loved that , but I only noticed that, after I developped the film .
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Unfortunately as Jurgen mentioned, any time you start sticking lightweight components out on to the front of the camera you basically create a wind trap. That applies not just to paddles but also to the bellows types of solution and even to general hoods if the wind load is high enough.

I don't use this when it's windy/breezy at all because whilst the arm is reasonably stiff it isn't solid. I do have a bigger more robust version from nasty clamps which is much less susceptible to side wind induced vibration but it is a bit of a monster.

I've put off buying the Alpa lens hood for a while but I'm going to get one of those eventually. The flare buster works in most situations but like all of these solutions it will always be a wind sail at some point.
 
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