jotloob
Subscriber Member
This is the hood to put into your trouser pocket .
I use it as a spare hood . It does not shade as good as a bellows hood but is
extremely light .
View attachment 61326
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Hoods on Tech Cams
- Thread starter Jack
- Start date
I use it as a spare hood . It does not shade as good as a bellows hood but is
extremely light .
View attachment 61326
Lee Lens Hood for A-S R camera
It occurred to me while designing iPhone Mounting Bracket (NuvoFocus) that a simple bracket maybe used to mount 'compendium' type lens hood for ALPA and Cambo camera.
Then, Jürgen ordered an ALPA mounting bracket and told me that he was going try to do exactly that, mounting A-S compendium hood on his ALPA camera.
And, he did it.
After seeing his work, I decided to make a quick conversion kit to mount my old Lee Lens Hood on Rm3di Tech Camera.
Then, Jürgen stole my thunder by making Lee Lens Hood mounting bracket.
Now, my Lee Lens Hood is done.
It is a simple and inexpensive project. I cut 2.25" long aluminum angle (.75" x .75" x .125"), attached ALPA bracket (NuvoFocus) on it and drilled two small screw holes to mount it onto Lee Hood frame. You should position the screw holes to make the hood center around the lens. I used stock 0.3125" aluminum round for mounting rod.
The hood has two filter slots, 2 and 4 mm. I have Lee ND filters which fit into 2 mm slot, and glass polarizing filter which is too thick for 2 mm and too thin for 4 mm, so it would slide down. I attached one piece of 2 mm holder at the bottom so the polarizing filter would sit on it.
You would need two brackets (both ALPA or one ALPA and one Cambo) if you want to make a kit for ALPA or Cambo camera.
cheers,
Jae Moon
It occurred to me while designing iPhone Mounting Bracket (NuvoFocus) that a simple bracket maybe used to mount 'compendium' type lens hood for ALPA and Cambo camera.
Then, Jürgen ordered an ALPA mounting bracket and told me that he was going try to do exactly that, mounting A-S compendium hood on his ALPA camera.
And, he did it.
After seeing his work, I decided to make a quick conversion kit to mount my old Lee Lens Hood on Rm3di Tech Camera.
Then, Jürgen stole my thunder by making Lee Lens Hood mounting bracket.
Now, my Lee Lens Hood is done.
It is a simple and inexpensive project. I cut 2.25" long aluminum angle (.75" x .75" x .125"), attached ALPA bracket (NuvoFocus) on it and drilled two small screw holes to mount it onto Lee Hood frame. You should position the screw holes to make the hood center around the lens. I used stock 0.3125" aluminum round for mounting rod.
The hood has two filter slots, 2 and 4 mm. I have Lee ND filters which fit into 2 mm slot, and glass polarizing filter which is too thick for 2 mm and too thin for 4 mm, so it would slide down. I attached one piece of 2 mm holder at the bottom so the polarizing filter would sit on it.
You would need two brackets (both ALPA or one ALPA and one Cambo) if you want to make a kit for ALPA or Cambo camera.
cheers,
Jae Moon
Last edited:
kdphotography
Well-known member
Jurgen,
What lens hood is this? Looks like a good back-up or alternative when the compendium is not an option...
ken
stephengilbert
Active member
Ken,
That's an ALPA lens hood. Quite expensive, and limited to lenses with barrel OD of between 70 and 75 mm: ALPA of Switzerland - Manufacturers of remarkable cameras - ALPA Pro Lens Shade PLS 70-75
Steve
That's an ALPA lens hood. Quite expensive, and limited to lenses with barrel OD of between 70 and 75 mm: ALPA of Switzerland - Manufacturers of remarkable cameras - ALPA Pro Lens Shade PLS 70-75
Steve
kdphotography
Well-known member
*ouch* I was hoping that Jurgen was going to reveal some secret source (other than Alpa) having conspired with Jae Moon on tech cam lens hood alternatives.... 
I know the Alpa "rubber" lens hood for the HR40 runs over $500....
I know the Alpa "rubber" lens hood for the HR40 runs over $500....
jotloob
Subscriber Member
Ken
There are no secret sources , but the ideas of some getdpi members .
I like that very much .
Yes , the ALPA 70/75 PLS is expensive , but was my first accessory when I bought my ALPA SWA . (STC later) . I use the PLS as a kind of "backup" .
Since then , I was thinking about making my own shading solution .
Jae's solution to use his adapter (nuvofocus) and a LEE bellows WA hood is simple and great and can be made by almost everyone with simple tools .
Is there a kind of rebirth for LEE bellow hoods ? ? ?
There are no secret sources , but the ideas of some getdpi members .
I like that very much .
Yes , the ALPA 70/75 PLS is expensive , but was my first accessory when I bought my ALPA SWA . (STC later) . I use the PLS as a kind of "backup" .
Since then , I was thinking about making my own shading solution .
Jae's solution to use his adapter (nuvofocus) and a LEE bellows WA hood is simple and great and can be made by almost everyone with simple tools .
Is there a kind of rebirth for LEE bellow hoods ? ? ?
Juergen
May I ask you how all this works when you apply rise and fall?
P
Ease correct me if I am wrong but on the STC I see this only working when the camera is in its intended orientation for use with shift ( horizontal left and right movement) but how about when the STC is turned by 90 degrees to apply rise and falls wouldn't the part of the camera where the lens is mounted hit the little screwed mount on top of the camera that holds the Lee filter rod?
I use the Max and mounting the rod on the camera frame at least with any sort of movements regardless of shift or rise and fall
I see this the main point of buying into a technical camera so I am wondering what the work around is in your set up when using rise and fall.
Don't get me wrong I think it looks great and I am also frustrated by the lack of options but if you want to apply rise and fall to your photography the hood need to be mounted to the lens or you use the flare buster where the lens does not hit the hood if rise and fall is applied
What's your take on this, maybe I am missing something
Thanks for sharing
Grischa
May I ask you how all this works when you apply rise and fall?
P
Ease correct me if I am wrong but on the STC I see this only working when the camera is in its intended orientation for use with shift ( horizontal left and right movement) but how about when the STC is turned by 90 degrees to apply rise and falls wouldn't the part of the camera where the lens is mounted hit the little screwed mount on top of the camera that holds the Lee filter rod?
I use the Max and mounting the rod on the camera frame at least with any sort of movements regardless of shift or rise and fall
I see this the main point of buying into a technical camera so I am wondering what the work around is in your set up when using rise and fall.
Don't get me wrong I think it looks great and I am also frustrated by the lack of options but if you want to apply rise and fall to your photography the hood need to be mounted to the lens or you use the flare buster where the lens does not hit the hood if rise and fall is applied
What's your take on this, maybe I am missing something
Thanks for sharing
Grischa
This lens shade can be used with the 23mm HR and HR40 mm among a few other lenses I don't recall
As a caution to others at try to eliminate the well documentned lens flare on the 23 HR please note that this shade is very hard to get mounted precisely on that lens in order to void the flare without the shade showing up in the frame it's really hard and I gave up on it and returned the shade
Maybe for the HR40 mm it works better but the 23 HR is a matter of less than a mm of tolerance to get it right between helping to get rid of the aperture sized center flare in certain light conditions and for the shade not to show in the frame
Anyway that's my experience anyway
My way of dealing with it is to have 2 quick shots if the flare shows up one with the flare and the other with my hand shading the upper part of the frame and then combine the 2 shots which is quicker than trying to mount the shade to the exact position.
As a caution to others at try to eliminate the well documentned lens flare on the 23 HR please note that this shade is very hard to get mounted precisely on that lens in order to void the flare without the shade showing up in the frame it's really hard and I gave up on it and returned the shade
Maybe for the HR40 mm it works better but the 23 HR is a matter of less than a mm of tolerance to get it right between helping to get rid of the aperture sized center flare in certain light conditions and for the shade not to show in the frame
Anyway that's my experience anyway
My way of dealing with it is to have 2 quick shots if the flare shows up one with the flare and the other with my hand shading the upper part of the frame and then combine the 2 shots which is quicker than trying to mount the shade to the exact position.
jotloob
Subscriber Member
I do not claim that my bellows system is perfect , but it fits my needs
so far . If I should encounter situations , where it needs further modifications , I will do them .
Have a look to image two .
The front and rear ends of the rod are reworked to have a flat part .
Here the screws can hold the rod and prevent the rod from turning .
I have the HR-DIGARON 28mm lens , but never do any shifting with that lens . The possible shift amount is very small anyway .
My next focal length is the HR-DIGARON 40mm .
If shift is required , I can use the ARCA bellows because that hood can easily be moved into proper shading position . Have a look to image three with the ARCA bellows .
Unfortunately , the ARCA bellows can not be turned .
But the LEE bellows can , but it is not required for the standard type , because that has a square form .
The LEE standard bellows are wide enough to properly shade most of the movement . My CFV-50 sensor is 37x49 . That makes things easier .
Horizontal and vertikal .
Please keep in mind , that I wanted to use as much available gear as possible .
The PLS fits very well to the 28mm RODIE .
I can't speek for the 23mm RODIE . I have never had one in my hands .
I have a LEE WA shade and it works well with HR28 (as long as you have the WA adapter ring and NOT the std ring. I use step up/down to interchange my WA adapter.
When handheld my WRS on location or trekking (per travel journalism-ish shoot), I use chinese generic equivalent 35mm lens view angle to match my HR lenses for $2/ piece. So far, it works quite well considering there are lots of factors why it is not the best solution in the way the lens moves.
PS: The nice thing with the 100mm WA adapter ring is that the Sinar lens shading clips onto to it perfectly and quite well light-sealed fitting.
I totally agree...
jotloob
Subscriber Member
Yes , looks nice , but what about filters ? ? ?
I am really fed up with the "screw in buisness" of filters .