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Maybe I should have stated this differently ...try a preset WB of 4800-5000 and 20 magenta as your daylight setting and see if the skin tones aren t better verse 5500/10 .Bottom line in all cases AWB is guessing at the color temp. Every hour of the day the kelvin temp changes. Now what looks good to your eye is not always accurate either. Our eyes make adjustments very easily but does not mean its accurate.
Check out this article
Why I Don't Use AWB | Pixiq
Yes Roger we are talking two different things per say. One is pleasing color to your eye and the other accurate color right down to the exact color temp of the scene shot. If you want accurate all across the shoot which is a fairly easy task. Say your shooting a model shoot your passport CC in the first shot than go to town shooting than back in post WB that image and apply to the whole shooting session. I do this on just about ever shoot. Now I may like it slightly warmer than I just apply maybe a 200 kelvin to the warm side.Maybe I should have stated this differently ...try a preset WB of 4800-5000 and 20 magenta as your daylight setting and see if the skin tones aren t better verse 5500/10 .
My goal is a pleasing skin tone without a lot of work as opposed to a accurate to the color chart rendering .
The other part of the debate is “do you want accurate color to a standard color chart or the color temperature you are actually seeing ? “ . Depends on the subject and the photographers intent . I don t want to adjust a nice evening back to mid day . This is the argument for a preset color temperature .
I have tried all the alternatives and prefer the AWB but thats all it is a preference . I can adjust to whatever in LR across the entire shoot but I have a reference to what the camera picked up.
The good news for me is that the Nikon seems to be producing very decent skin tones with little adjustment which was not the case in the D3/D700.
This essentially sums it up. There are times (especially for a client's work), that accurate color representation of the subject is critical. Then there are times that pleasing to the eye takes "front and center", as in wedding/portatrit or personal work. For me personally, it depends on these and other factors. Then there are those times in stage productions, where the lighting (both temp. and kind used) is changing by the moment and regardless of the W/B setting, its not going to get it right or even close. Often times show one of these images to those who are knowledgable in W/B, and you'll get 25 opinions what W/B setting should be used. In other words, there is no right or wrong in these particuar images. Use of a color checker in this instance isn't going to help, as "accurate" is often about as far removed from pleasing as one can get.Accurate and pleasing are many times not the same. But that's okay if it's not critical applications than pleasing to your eye is fine. If you wanted to correct a sunset in accurate mode you probably would not like the image at all as it would look to blue. I'll leave it at accurate may not be art if you know what I mean.
Hopefully that helps.
It would be nice if LR could read the PC settings of Nikon camera ...Still sometime struggle with LR 4 colors for the D800. I use Adobe Standard and process 2012.
Did anybody try to change the color calibration data?
Than you! Yes I did some of that proces shoting the Whiball and applied them to the other by marking them all (from the same sort of light). And yes you are right C1 is just very simple in that way, and it takes 10 seconds to get it done. But I have never used a Colorchecker passport. Thought it would be a complicated proces the get all the colors spot on(?).Just use the passport in a test shot . Than WB copy setting and apply to one or as many images you want. Very simple process. What I do a lot say I shot 50 images in the same light . I will shoot one with the passport in the frame . WB that image than use the shift key click on the last image , go to edit and copy and apply adjustments. Than a dialog box will come up to select all settings or whatever you want and than okay that. Than deselect by hitting any image in browser side and basically your done. Now many times on that first image I will set sharpness clarity and things like that I want on all of the 50 images. I may do this several times on a whole card as the light changed and than go back and process what I want. C1 can be very fast in workflow once you get the hang of the program. It's a big deal workflow for shooters that shoot lots of images. Many times it could be shooting thousands of images too. I do this at my wives modeling conventions I may shoot 8 thousand images in total so good flow is essential . I also fine tune my WB for stage lights as well so it's dead on the money in camera so I don't have to do this in C1. Plus I shoot on manual exposure and nail it as well so I can avoid those adjustments.
I still am and always will be the thought process of nailing everything I can in camera. Coming from film this is the key learning tool that you can bring into digital that makes life much easier. The I can fix it later thought don't work well with me. Sometimes this old school thinking pays big dividends.