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Fun with the Hasselblad 907x

FloatingLens

Well-known member
In my experience, the 38 Biogon is an extremely potent lens even on digital. But it is difficult to achieve maximum DOF because the plane of what's in focus on digital curves like crazy at f4,5. Stopped down to f11, it gets well-behaved. To me it has a very transparent look. See example below.

I understand that nobody wants to buy an SWC just to use it as difficult-to-tame medium wide. The lens is still a gem.

 

hasselblad 503cw

Well-known member
In my experience, the 38 Biogon is an extremely potent lens even on digital. But it is difficult to achieve maximum DOF because the plane of what's in focus on digital curves like crazy at f4,5. Stopped down to f11, it gets well-behaved. To me it has a very transparent look. See example below.

I understand that nobody wants to buy an SWC just to use it as difficult-to-tame medium wide. The lens is still a gem.

Yes, SWC/M is still one of my most favourite camera. just love it, don't ask me why, love is love, don't ask.
 

sjg284

Well-known member
907x 100c & 28p
First outing with the combo
I know some call it a "street lens" but that seems more like a weight/size thing.. so far it feels a bit too wide for street in my use.
Particularly at this focal length ensuring you keep the horizon level while handheld because its much harder to tweak in post..
It is a great lens though, and I do like the close up ability.


5-11-24_HB907x_0014 by Steve, on Flickr
 

wattsy

Well-known member
28p
I know some call it a "street lens" but that seems more like a weight/size thing..
It's Hasselblad themselves that have been calling it a "street" lens and much of the promotional "buzz" at launch reflected that. The weight/size thing is certainly one factor in that description but I also think it is Hasselblad being cautious because the lens has a number of optical quirks that are less than ideal for demanding landscape or architectural use.
 

Attachments

KlausJH

Well-known member
What I like about the C Sonnar is the creamy bokeh, the background separation, the colors, the size and that it works on a 44x33 sensor. However, it is not an allrounder for everything. The design is from 1932 with a modern coating. It is never sharp in the corners but from f/1.5 to f/2 very moody and can create a dreamy look.
It is great for people photography but difficult to nail the focus. I don't use it very often but will keep it forever. So, yes, I like it very much. (And the extreme focus shift is not an issue with a mirrorless).
 

anyone

Well-known member
I'm struggling with bright sunlight and the not-so-bright LCD of the CFV100c. How are you dealing with it? Does anyone use the optical viewfinder, which seems very pricy for what it is? With Hasselblad V cameras, one could solve the problem by using the loupe of the waist level finder.
 

KlausJH

Well-known member
I'm struggling with bright sunlight and the not-so-bright LCD of the CFV100c. How are you dealing with it? Does anyone use the optical viewfinder, which seems very pricy for what it is? With Hasselblad V cameras, one could solve the problem by using the loupe of the waist level finder.
I don't find the OVF very practical. In bright sunshine I use often a Hoodman Loupe. This makes the LCD a huge EVF.
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
I don't find the OVF very practical. In bright sunshine I use often a Hoodman Loupe. This makes the LCD a huge EVF.
I don't find the OVF very practical either . Additional , I find the framing lines not dark enough and therefore the OVF is almost unusable .
To use a loupe is useful , but when I work from a tripod , I use a dark cloth , which I still have from my 4x5 LF time .
That works fine .
 

KlausJH

Well-known member
Mine is the Hoodman HoodLoupe Professional LCD Screen Loupe for 3" Displays
It is an older version, no longer in production and replaced by the H32MB.
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
I have ordered the HOODMAN H32MB . The darkcloth solution is good but the loupe seems to be easier .
 

usm

Well-known member
I'm struggling with bright sunlight and the not-so-bright LCD of the CFV100c. How are you dealing with it? Does anyone use the optical viewfinder, which seems very pricy for what it is? With Hasselblad V cameras, one could solve the problem by using the loupe of the waist level finder.
In almost every situation: If the sun is not blocked by my self it is in front of me and then I know I am in a wrong position. Just my “work” around. ;)
 

Ai_Print

Active member
I'm struggling with bright sunlight and the not-so-bright LCD of the CFV100c. How are you dealing with it? Does anyone use the optical viewfinder, which seems very pricy for what it is? With Hasselblad V cameras, one could solve the problem by using the loupe of the waist level finder.
This and IBIS is why I went for the X2D, even with a big stable of V glass and only 3 XCD lenses.
 

wattsy

Well-known member
In almost every situation: If the sun is not blocked by my self it is in front of me and then I know I am in a wrong position. Just my “work” around. ;)
My natural instinct is to shoot towards the sun or main light source. 😂 I would be a liar if I said that I never find it awkward to use the screen on the 907x in bright light but I've pretty much got used to it by now. I could probably benefit from one of those Hoodman loupes but I make do with a foldable rectangular insert from one of my Billingham bags which I use as a makeshift light shield when the light is particularly intrusive. I do most of my composing in my head so I only use the display to frame the composition and focus and I find I can do that without having to bother with the OVF.

907x CFV II 50c & 45P



907x CFV II 50c & 45P
 
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