Hasselblad CFV ll 50c

[spb]

Next challenge will be doing the same with the camera fitted with the Hasselblad Smart Grip ... of course, that's low priority because, for me, the whole notion of the 'Blad grip is for hand-held shooting with the optical viewfinder.
G

The Control Grip, I will have 30/45P/65 and 90mm lenses I feel confident that those can be handheld. Do you agree with my assessment. In which case the grip may not be necessary ALL the time. Of course there are other reasons to want the Grip, the wheels front and back for Aperture, Speed etc.....

 

[nameBrandon]

The Control Grip, I will have 30/45P/65 and 90mm lenses I feel confident that those can be handheld. Do you agree with my assessment. In which case the grip may not be necessary ALL the time. Of course there are other reasons to want the Grip, the wheels front and back for Aperture, Speed etc.....

I have all of them except the 65, and I hand hold them without issue. Looking forward to the control grip, but it's not an issue IMO to hand-hold them without it.

Now the 120/135.. even the 35-75 might be a bit much for walk-around hand-held use.

 

[spb]

I have all of them except the 65, and I hand hold them without issue. Looking forward to the control grip, but it's not an issue IMO to hand-hold them without it.

Now the 120/135.. even the 35-75 might be a bit much for walk-around hand-held use.

Thanks, this is what I was thinking, I might not need the grip, except for convenience of extra controls.

 

[Godfrey]

I can only speak for myself, but I feel strongly that I'll get sharper, better focused results even with just the 21 and 45P that I have now once I have a suitable left-hand grip or the 'Blad Smart Grip available. I've made a number of satisfying photos with the 907x and these two, plus other V system lenses, hand held already ... But sharper and better focused results are certainly one of the goals I have in mind.

G

 

[jotloob]

Can anyone please tell me , what is this . Is it the "LEICA RED DOT"

 

[JAB]

Ah! Perfect timing!! I was just wondering what users of the Peak Design straps and dongles thought of how well they work.

I would like to have a strap for my new 907x50c.

Any thoughts??

 

[Godfrey]

Can anyone please tell me , what is this . Is it the "LEICA RED DOT"

View attachment 151244

It's a Peak Design Anchor used for all of their strap systems. As I and others have said, the Peak Design Leash is just right for the 907x (and many other cameras as well). I use these anchors and straps with my Leica CL, M, Light L16, Fuji GS645S, Polaroid SX-70 type, and other cameras.

 

[Michael_Sweden]

Ah! Perfect timing!! I was just wondering what users of the Peak Design straps and dongles thought of how well they work.

I would like to have a strap for my new 907x50c.

Any thoughts??

I also looked for a strap for my newly acquired 907x but I didn't want to ruin the "DNA" of the camera (in my mind). I also have the 205FCC and a 501CM, both with the Hasselblad "handle" strap on them. For me that's the perfect solution. Anyway. I found and got the very Black Leica Wrist strap and connected it to the left side mount. This way I can securely handle the camera without fear of dropping it and keep the clean look of the camera. I love it and it is never obstructing me handling the camera. (mind my English if you see a bunch of grammatical errors) I also love the small leather patch that prevents the body from getting scratched by the metal ring.

 

[spb]

Wrist straps aren't for me, years of computers I suppose. I am happy with the Peak Design SLIDE LITE.

 

[Bill_Evans]

Looking for a bit of advice from the wisdom of the group. I'm currently happily shooting a 1st gen X1D with a 2 lens kit (45p & 90). And I also just gifted myself an Arcbody with a 45mm to be compact architectural film kit. But... It's easy to be tempted by the newish 907x as a replacement for the X1D and an accessory to the Arcbody. But I've read that digital backs don't play well with film based large format type lenses. But I've never seen samples from the Arcbody to see how bad things are. So if someone would be willing to share some experience or example, or point in the right direction, I'd be much appreciative.

Cheers and thanks, Bill

 

[leejo]

Looking for a bit of advice from the wisdom of the group. I'm currently happily shooting a 1st gen X1D with a 2 lens kit (45p & 90). And I also just gifted myself an Arcbody with a 45mm to be compact architectural film kit. But... It's easy to be tempted by the newish 907x as a replacement for the X1D and an accessory to the Arcbody. But I've read that digital backs don't play well with film based large format type lenses. But I've never seen samples from the Arcbody to see how bad things are. So if someone would be willing to share some experience or example, or point in the right direction, I'd be much appreciative.

Cheers and thanks, Bill

I've been researching this for the last few days as I have a graflok to V back convertor on its way for my 4x5 camera / CFV II 50c. The issues seem to be:

• Colour fringing - Due to the nature of a digital processor sensor pixel layout (2 dimensions) versus film colour layers (3 dimensions)
• Difraction - Large format lenses you typically stop down to f22/32/45 with film, If you do that with the digital sensor you're going to get diffraction issues
• Crop factor - A wide angle 4x5 lens is a normal or even tele when used with a 33x44mm digi back

I haven't managed to *find* any useful examples of the above online, so when my convertor arrives I will shoot some test shots before I decide to get any digital back optimised large format lenses. I don't know if the issues are more pronounced when using movements (I suspect yes?) and will test that also, as that is my primary reason for wanting to use the CFV II 50c on my 4x5 camera.

 

[budfox]

I also looked for a strap for my newly acquired 907x but I didn't want to ruin the "DNA" of the camera (in my mind). I also have the 205FCC and a 501CM, both with the Hasselblad "handle" strap on them. For me that's the perfect solution. Anyway. I found and got the very Black Leica Wrist strap and connected it to the left side mount. This way I can securely handle the camera without fear of dropping it and keep the clean look of the camera. I love it and it is never obstructing me handling the camera. (mind my English if you see a bunch of grammatical errors) I also love the small leather patch that prevents the body from getting scratched by the metal ring.

I got this strap as well after seeing your pics. It's also a bit longer than the standard wrist strap which gives your left hand more room to move around the camera.

 

[leejo]

I've been researching this for the last few days as I have a graflok to V back convertor on its way for my 4x5 camera / CFV II 50c. The issues seem to be:

• Colour fringing - Due to the nature of a digital processor sensor pixel layout (2 dimensions) versus film colour layers (3 dimensions)
• Difraction - Large format lenses you typically stop down to f22/32/45 with film, If you do that with the digital sensor you're going to get diffraction issues
• Crop factor - A wide angle 4x5 lens is a normal or even tele when used with a 33x44mm digi back

I haven't managed to *find* any useful examples of the above online, so when my convertor arrives I will shoot some test shots before I decide to get any digital back optimised large format lenses. I don't know if the issues are more pronounced when using movements (I suspect yes?) and will test that also, as that is my primary reason for wanting to use the CFV II 50c on my 4x5 camera.

Follow up on this - received my graflok to V back.

Crop Factor: I shot this frame using my 4x5 camera with my Schneider Super-Angulon f5.6/90mm on Fuji Acros:



I then switched my film back with my digital back. The crop factor when using the CFV II 50c back looks like this:



I can use the back's built in shift combined with the rise/fall of the front standard to get a stitch of 9 frames eqivalent to this:



The resulting stitch:



Here are some 100% crops from that, none of which have been sharpened:

Centre:



Bottom left corner:



You might notice some slight colour changes at the edges, which brings us onto the next thing:

Colour Fringing: I'd say on the 90mm (and longer) it's more than acceptable. If I stick my 72mm on and use the back's shift to do a 3 frame pano, then we get a clear indication of how wide angle large format film lenses will be a problem on a digital back:



I think a general rule of thumb is the closer to the back standard the worse it will be. I think the 90mm is more than acceptable, I wouldn't hesitate to use it with stitching and movements.

The last thing:

Diffraction: Yes, this is a problem. Here's some 100% crops from the CFV + 90mm

f11:



f32:



I didn't test all apertures so I don't know if f11 is optimal.

In terms of general sharpness the 90mm on my CFV II back is more than good enough, even at the edges with the stitching. I doubt I will bother getting digital optimised large format lenses.

 

[usm]

Hi!
Can some one explain me the workflow with CFVII50C and a techcam with a copal 0 lens?
I own the CFVii50c but no techcam, still looking...

This article is the reason for asking: My Main reason of buying the Hasselblad 907x was to use the Digital back section the CFVII50c on a technical camera such as a Cambo WRS1600 or a Cambo Actus. I rented the Actus along with a Rodenstock 32mm HR Lens, sadly upon trying this setup with the digital back it became instantly obvious that I wasn’t going to get along with the workflow. I couldn’t adjust exposure in live view. The Live view preview didn’t match the exposure I got when capturing an image. It didn’t stand up to the Cambo Actus XCD and my X1D. I wanted this to work, but unfortunately it isn’t for me.

From: https://www.jamesbellphotography.co...hotography-from-grasmere-in-the-english-lake-

Thanks.

 

[Cambo]

Hi!
Can some one explain me the workflow with CFVII50C and a techcam with a copal 0 lens?
I own the CFVii50c but no techcam, still looking...

This article is the reason for asking: My Main reason of buying the Hasselblad 907x was to use the Digital back section the CFVII50c on a technical camera such as a Cambo WRS1600 or a Cambo Actus. I rented the Actus along with a Rodenstock 32mm HR Lens, sadly upon trying this setup with the digital back it became instantly obvious that I wasn’t going to get along with the workflow. I couldn’t adjust exposure in live view. The Live view preview didn’t match the exposure I got when capturing an image. It didn’t stand up to the Cambo Actus XCD and my X1D. I wanted this to work, but unfortunately it isn’t for me.

From: https://www.jamesbellphotography.co...hotography-from-grasmere-in-the-english-lake-

Thanks.

Like any other new digital back, the CFV will probably come with a cable that enables you to connect the back to the Copal shutter's X-contact. This synchronises back and shutter.

Open the Copal shutter and the aperture to do your framing and camera adjustments. Stop down and close the lens. After that you'll cock the shutter and expose.

Leejo already mentioned the colour cast appearing in the edges. Indeed, this will be more severe when using wide angle lenses, certainly when you're applying shift (which is probably what you want when you're going to work with a tech or view cam). It's easy to correct in post, as long as you shoot an extra frame with an opaque plate in front of the lens. This one is needed to make an LCC (Capture One) or Lens Cast Calibration (Hasselblad Phocus).

 

[leejo]

Can some one explain me the workflow with CFVII50C and a techcam with a copal 0 lens?

My impression is that the author of the blog post appears to be disappointed that the back doesn't function as a light meter when using it with a tech camera - the live view is there for composition and focus, not for metering.

You can use the back with a cable, as Cambo suggests, or with the electronic shutter.

 

[usm]

...I couldn’t adjust exposure in live view. The Live view preview didn’t match the exposure I got when capturing an image...

How I work with XCD lenses: I use the Aperture-Mode -> setting the Aperture -> checking exposing time -> maybe a +- correction -> expose
How will it be with copal shutter lens?
And how will it be using the electronic shutter?

 

[Cambo]

How I work with XCD lenses: I use the Aperture-Mode -> setting the Aperture -> checking exposing time -> maybe a +- correction -> expose
How will it be with copal shutter lens?
And how will it be using the electronic shutter?

How this would be when using the ES is something the Hasselblad reps should be able to explain. When working with a Copal or other mechanical shutter there's no electronic connection between camera and back; the cable is just there to sync. As far as I know, you'll need a separate meter or just estimate the exposure and check the histogram afterwards.

 

[usm]

I can set the Aperture on copal 0 lens by hand as I can do with a XCD or I did on a Leica M lens.
The camera tells me the time I will need - right?

When I use the electronic shutter I am ready to expose.

When using the copal 0: What exactly I have to to - step by step?

Thanks and sorry for this beginner question...

 

[Cambo]

I can set the Aperture on copal 0 lens by hand as I can do with a XCD or I did on a Leica M lens.
The camera tells me the time I will need - right?

When I use the electronic shutter I am ready to expose.

When using the copal 0: What exactly I have to to - step by step?

Thanks and sorry for this beginner question...

Basically I gave a step-by-step description in my first reply. It's easier to understand, if you've got a Copal shutter in front of you.

In case you're going to work with the ES (which has its limitations, depending on the subject):
-The big black lever opens the shutter
-The shutter remains open, you're only going to use its aperture ring
-Open the aperture completely
-Compose
-Stop-down
-Exposure is done at the DB, or on your computer in case you're shooting tethered.

To use the Copal shutter:
-Synchronise DB and shutter by means of the cable between DB and the shutter's X-contact
-The big black lever opens the shutter
-Open the aperture completely
-Compose
-The big black lever closes the shutter
-Stop-down
-Set the expose time on the Copal shutter
-Cock the shutter
-Expose