Graham Mitchell
New member
I'll give you the opposite advice to Guy I've never needed more than 1/1000 but then again I don't have the hot Arizona sun.
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I mirror that experience ... I just set ISO 50 on my H3D-II/39 and rarely need over 1/800th ... and on the rare occassion I do, I use a ND filter or my Polarizer.I'll give you the opposite advice to Guy I've never needed more than 1/1000 but then again I don't have the hot Arizona sun.
IN point of fact, if you have to shoot all the environments you mention, you will ultimately need two systems (IMHO).
I am hopeful that Hassy comes out with a focal plane shutter body but in the meantime I also have the Hassy 203FE which gets the job done with the CFV II back. Buying into the Phase/Mamiya system is a possibility but then I will need a new stable of lenses which doesn't really work financially.
Woody
It sure doesn't...The ONE camera does not yet exist in any line.
You're probably right Doug ... but we can dream on for a Focal plane H body ... after all, they did it before with the V series.Call me biased, which I am, but I think it is unlikely Hasselblad will introduce a focal plane shutter in a modern design. Moreover if they did it seems very likely they would force you to upgrade to their latest back to use it, so taking it into consideration now would be a moot point. For instance when they released the 28mm lens they locked out all previous Hasselblad backs and all competitors backs.
In contrast Phase has promised a line of leaf shutter lenses will ship this year and made them compatible with the existing Phase One body which is in turn compatible with just about anything you can physically fit on the rear.
Comparing Hassy and P1 there is not really any debate which will have an open future and both fast shutter speed (1/4000th) and fast sync speed (likely 1/500th or faster).
Doug Peterson
Capture Integration, Phase One Dealer
Personal Portfolio
There's a significant difference between 1/400 and 1/1000: about 1 1/3 stops. The Canon with 1/250 is only 2/3 stops behind the RZ. Still it's a big improvement over the 645AF.The ONLY limitations are the RZ is larger and heavier than the Rollei, but still totally hand-holdable; the max shutter speeds are limited to 1/400th instead of 1/1000th, which is not really a serious limitation for studio or even mixed outdoor strobe lighting
Sorry Jack, but I'll never carry a RZ around at an event or wedding, or many of the commercial location shoots I do ... love the camera ... in the studio, on a tripod.It sure doesn't...
And at present, the cheapest 2-camera solution is a Mamyia AFD and an RZD with AFD adapter plate. HOWEVER, that cheapest solution may also be the best for now.
With the above RZ/AFD combo you get WLF in both orientations just like the Rollei/Sinar/Leaf AFi. Here the Hassy H is horizontal only with WLF which is all but useless for studio portraiture IMO. So bottom line is you really get a three-fer system with the two Mamiya bodies.
The ONLY limitations are the RZ is larger and heavier than the Rollei, but still totally hand-holdable; the max shutter speeds are limited to 1/400th instead of 1/1000th, which is not really a serious limitation for studio or even mixed outdoor strobe lighting; and the RZ is totally manual focus -- this may be the one deal breaker for some if they have to have WLF or high flash synch with AF...
Cheers,
If you are buying all new PQS lenses you get 1/1000 sync, but then you would be dropping $16k USD on three lenses. Most of the used lenses that are reasonably priced are PQ lenses which sync at 1/500. In reality, unless you drop alot of money or rent lenses, you will be working with the PQ lenses at 1/500, which is better than teh RZ's 1/400, but not by much.There's a significant difference between 1/400 and 1/1000: about 1 1/3 stops. The Canon with 1/250 is only 2/3 stops behind the RZ. Still it's a big improvement over the 645AF.
Btw, there is one other real limitation of the RZ: 50mm is the widest rectilinear lens.
Yes, but remember this is a 2-body kit, and the widest rectilinear lens for the AFD is a 28.Btw, there is one other real limitation of the RZ: 50mm is the widest rectilinear lens.
The problem with that idea is that you are normally shooting people with this mixed light setup, and so you need to constantly focus and use the viewfinder. An ND filter makes that difficult or could even stop AF from working completely.As for flash sync, in the studio you may find it more convenient to not use any strobes and use only hot lighting. In other cases with strong ambient light (e.g., outdoor fill flash) and where you would need a 1/500 flash sync, you can use a 2-stop ND filter to bring down the sync speed to 1/125.
Yes, I can see that. If you are more dependent on AF, then this might prove difficult for you. I have never had any problems though, and I use this technique with wide aperture outdoor portraits with plenty of light still coming through the viewfinder, at least for me. Everyone is different, so the best is to test things out and go with what works best for you.The problem with that idea is that you are normally shooting people with this mixed light setup, and so you need to constantly focus and use the viewfinder. An ND filter makes that difficult or could even stop AF from working completely.