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But of course, how stupid of me to even think otherwise!Obviously, the Achro 150 as it would have better trade in value for the Achro 300...
GrahamBtw, I’d forgotten how challenging focusing the achromatic can be with LV on a tech camera. Any hints?
The low contrast makes it a challenge I found, but I love the resulting files that can be stretched so far to add contrast in post.
I use these IR UV cut filters for normal B&W and don't have any issues focusing in LV except it can be difficult in very low light. IR can be tricky, but generally I don't have a lot of issues again except in low light.Btw, I’d forgotten how challenging focusing the achromatic can be with LV on a tech camera. Any hints?
The low contrast makes it a challenge I found, but I love the resulting files that can be stretched so far to add contrast in post.
Btw, I’d forgotten how challenging focusing the achromatic can be with LV on a tech camera. Any hints?
The low contrast makes it a challenge I found, but I love the resulting files that can be stretched so far to add contrast in post.
Actually a mix of visible and some extension into IR. Basically, being able to add more contrast to a scene in live view would help. I was shooting very foliage rich scenes so contrast was subtle at best. Also, it didn’t help that the loaner back wouldn’t connect via WiFi to Capture Pilot on my phone / iPad to help. (My own IQ3100 works perfectly - the loaner not so much).I am assuming you are talking about IR. It woul help if the live view could allow you to adjust it’s exposure or contrast.
About that....I would support that GFX conversion.
Dunno, Todd. You first. :ROTFL:
I actually wouldn't mind sending in my GFX 50 for conversion----once the new Fuji is released. I'd rather have a Phase One Achromatic....
:ROTFL: I like this game of chickenDunno, Todd. You first. :ROTFL:
I actually wouldn't mind sending in my GFX 50 for conversion----once the new Fuji is released. I'd rather have a Phase One Achromatic....