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wo hast du die aufnahmen gemacht?Austria
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Chamonix C45f-2, Grandagon 90mm, Velvia 50 converted to B&W
IR exposure is indeed difficult and likewise all experimental slow film. I have aquired Rollei ATO 2.5 and Wephota FO 5 both Technical Ortho films, and in practice Lith films. Exposure latitude and contrast range is very narrow. And reciprocity indoors with normal contrast film is also tricky. Hovever, I have a trick for saving underexposed and thin negatives. I use Silverfast and they have Negafix film profiles. By selecting Negafix Vendor Other and Filmtype Other I get options for ISO/ASA : Standard, Linear and Monochrome. The Linear option works magic for thin negatives.I've been experimenting with Efke PL iR820 Infra-Red film and my DIY 4x5 these last couple days. Anyone who has tried IR film knows the challenges in getting the metering right. Especially when using an IR filter that often calls for a 5-stop exposure compensation.
The snow pictures in B&W would benefit from an Orange filter as the filter helps pick up the texture of the snow. The snow is just a touch dull and smooth. Otherwise nice images.My 'Spring break' holiday, too wet for skiing.
SK Symmar S 100mm f5.6 , Fomapan 100 9x12cm , Graflex Crown Graphic
Thanks, I usually carry color filters, but can't remember anymore, did I use a yellow or not.The snow pictures in B&W would benefit from an Orange filter as the filter helps pick up the texture of the snow. The snow is just a touch dull and smooth. Otherwise nice images.
Exposure index ISO 6 ? Good to know, but I have Hoya 720 nm R72 filter so probably not directly applicable.One more before I call it a night.
DIY4x5, 120mm Film: Efke IR820 (Ifra Red). F/22, 1/2 sec
Looks a bit offworldly? Not sure why it shows more grain then the one above shot at F/16?
My bad... I neglected to mention that I too used the Hoya R72 filter. I've updated my prior posts accordingly.Exposure index ISO 6 ? Good to know, but I have Hoya 720 nm R72 filter so probably not directly applicable.
820nm is BTW in my opinion really high cutoff.
There are not many producers making IR film anymore, and especially sheet film. You could probably compare Ilford SFX pseudo IR. I can see the ligth in center, but can’t say if it’s a light leak. I got uneven development with stand development and roll films on reel. Bromide drag because of too little agitation. And that was showing up like too bright negative exterior. Put a sheet in the camera with the holder darkslide removed and lens shut. Leave in light for a day and develop the sheet. Light leak should show up.