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Hasselblad Support has confirmed that this bug is reproducible on their cameras too. It's been acknowledged as a confirmed bug and put on the fixit list.It's a bug. The indication resets to M on the top panel, but the metering function is as it says in the selection panel. Just tested with my 907x SE, does the same thing.
PS: I sent an email to Hasselblad Support with a bug report. You should likely do that as well.
Actually, for reasons that have never really made sense to me, Hasselblad does not support auto ISO in manual mode. So this isn’t an option.
So, if one wants auto ISO and wants to shoot exclusively at f/4 the best choice is to put it in aperture priority, set it to f/4, and set the appropriate minimum shutter speed for your lens. You won’t use the button at all—the camera will pick shutter and ISO. Using the shift button one can force the camera to over/under expose as needed.
If you really want the main dial to control shutter speed, one can put the camera in shutter priority. But then you need to make sure you keep the shutter speed high enough that the camera doesn’t change the aperture off of f/4. Again, one can over or under expose using the shift button.
Good luck. I've been requesting Auto ISO in manual mode since 2017. Hasselblad feels it would be confusing to the user. Go figure.I asked support to add this into the next firmware.
Jeese since 1997! I hope I don't have to wait that long, I find it very useful. How come it is not confusing to the user in every other mode? I cannot figure that one outGood luck. I've been requesting Auto ISO in manual mode since 1997. Hasselblad feels it would be confusing to the user. Go figure.
The usual explanation I've gotten in conversation with camera tech design folks is that many users expect "Manual" exposure mode to be explicit: set ISO, set aperture, set exposure time, nothing else. Set aperture, set exposure time, and let ISO vary is not really Manual mode to many users ... it's what Pentax dubbed "Time/Aperture Priority" or TA mode when the added it into the K10D model about a decade or so ago: lock time and aperture, let sensitivity vary. Many manufacturers have since incorporated it as a feature of Manual mode with AutoISO, that's all, but it's not a universally supported feature by all manufacturers.Jeese since 1997! I hope I don't have to wait that long, I find it very useful. How come it is not confusing to the user in every other mode? I cannot figure that one out
Hmm. I don't think the AF is "useless", only a bit slow. Doesn't bother me because I don't use AF all that much anyway ... It's so easy to focus manually, I just don't see the point most of the time. AF is just a convenience to use when it works well. One thing that made the AF work better for me was to reduce the AF area to its minimum size (Settings -> Camera -> Focus :: AF Point Size: SMALL).As I go into my third day of owning the 45P, I can't decide which is worse - the fact that the lens autofocus is useless, or the fact that the CFVii50C's focus peaking is hopelessly inaccurate.
I encountered numerous times where the peaking shows up in out-of-focus areas during live view. Anybody encountered and/or agree with my frustrations?
I just tried it with the Summicron-R 90mm. It works better at f/2 with this lens, modulo the 'too heavy' peaking indication lines that obliterate everything. The sensitivity is just too high at smaller apertures ... too much is considered "in focus" ... and the thickness of the peaking indication is so heavy that you can barely see the subject through the peaking lines. The fact that it only works in full view and not in magnified view makes it doubly useless... and of course in magnified view, you can turn it off and see the focus point critically and precisely.Exactly my point! The focus peaking is too coarse to be useful. How does the focus peaking work out for your non XCD glass though?
I'm trying to get my hands on the Novoflex Minolta MD-X1D adaptor and use my Rokkor 55mm f/1.7 which is tested and proven to work well on GFX.
Looks nice! If focusing seems stiff the lubrication has probably dried out - may be time for a CLA...Just received a used CF 100/3.5 Planar and since it was already dark outside my first test shot was a houseplant. Mounted the lens in the XV adapter and XH tripod ring adapter on my tripod. Shot was 25 sec at f/11 ISO 100 with the 907x/50CII. I'll see how it does in daylight later this week. Focusing was a little stiff, but otherwise lens looks good.
The usual explanation I've gotten in conversation camera tech design folks is that many users expect "Manual" exposure mode to be explicit: set ISO, set aperture, set exposure time, nothing else. Set aperture, set exposure time, and let ISO vary is not really Manual mode to many users ... it's what Pentax dubbed "Time/Aperture Priority" or TA mode when the added it into the K10D model about a decade or so ago: lock time and aperture, let sensitivity vary. Many manufacturers have since incorporated it as a feature of Manual mode with AutoISO, that's all, but it's not a universally supported feature by all manufacturers.
AutoISO in exposure automation modes seems a fairly straightforward addition since AE modes have the implicit notion that the camera is taking control and varying at least one of the three mechanisms of exposure. Adding AutoISO to Manual mode makes it, semantically and functionally, not actually Manual operation: you're giving the camera leave to adjust at least one exposure parameter by itself. AutoISO behavior isn't always entirely easy to figure out either, which is why some (many) cameras have user controls for how the AutoISO function operates. It's a big stretch to consider it as essential to Manual operation.
I'm not entirely sure I disagree with Hasselblad: When I switch my camera to Manual exposure mode, I expect it to do exactly and ONLY what I set explicitly. It took me a while to get my ideas around the addition of AutoISO to Manual mode when I first encountered it, and I still find I don't use it all that often as it can be confusing and has some limitations that can sneak up on you, IMO. It's kind of like adding EV Compensation to Manual mode ... why use that instead of just setting the exposure value that you need in the first place?